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Our view of Cape Town's Waterfront at night |
From Cape Town to the Savanna:
We had been looking forward to a safari experience for several
years. Our plan was to land on the east coast of Africa with the World ARC and
take the first weather window(s) available to sail around the Cape to Cape
Town. This is not an easy sail to plan as the weather demands that you go on Mother
Nature's schedule. After a long wait for a chance to head west, we took it.
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Barb and Joe enjoying a taste of South Africa vino |
We then spent two weeks making the passage and having work done
on the boat in Cape Town so S/V Trillium would be ready for crossing the South
Atlantic Ocean to Brazil. We had heard that their summer and Christmas break starts around December 15th, so we wanted to get things taken care of before everyone shut down. And they did stop working from about December 16 through January 7!
One of the biggest challenges we have had on this adventure has been the number of holidays the rest of the world celebrates! Somehow, we seem to have hit every official holiday in every country we have visited. There are holidays for everything and they are usually 2-4 days in length. Frustrating when you are trying to get people to work on the boat or you need to do some banking, etc.
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Our "chariot" awaits! OMG! |
The plan was to head to Botswana first and Dennis' brother, Joe and
sister-in-law, Barb, were joining us on the safari. They were coming to Cape Town for a couple of days before flying to Botswana with us. We gave them a quick look-see around the Waterfront area and had dinner out under a view of Table Mountain. We would have a very early start the following day.
Botswana
was our country of choice because they do not allow hunting of the animals. The only “animal” that is
legally hunted is the human poacher! And they will shoot them on site. They are very serious about stopping the maiming and killing of wild animals for their tusks, horns, etc.
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Our pilot was a young gal. |
The first day of our adventure into the wild animal kingdom
started with an early morning plane ride to Maun, Botswana. Once we landed in
Maun with its small airport we were greeted by the Desert & Delta Safari
representative.
Since we had to wait for Barb and Joe to arrive, the Meet & Greet gal suggested
that we go to the local craft shops and "Peek and Pay!" I wasn’t
ready to drop my dollars so early in the trip, but we looked at things. That
was a mistake as there was a cute tee shirt I wanted, but thought I would see
it again later. NOT! I should have paid! Delta, Alpha, Mike, November.
Once we were finally all together, it was time to board our first
bush plane. OMG! I don't like the idea of these little 4-6 passenger planes.
But it is the only way to get to the safari camps in a reasonable amount of
time. So, I had to gather up my nerves and climb aboard. We were only allowed
to have one soft-sided 20” duffle bag and a small backpack due to the size of
the plane.
What a pleasant surprise when a gal hoped into the pilot seat!
She was very young, too. I was fascinated just watching her as she checked out
everything and began our approach to the small runway. Although a bit noisy,
the flight was comfortable and interesting as we flew close to the ground
(relative to larger planes) and around rain squalls. We can see squalls coming
toward us on the ocean and can do some maneuvering to avoid the heaviest areas,
but this time we were at eye level with the black clouds and could see clear
spaces between the rain showers. It was interesting.
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Look who is crossing the runway in front of our bush plane! |
We had to stop at one of the closer camps to drop off some workers
and pick up two guests who were moving to their next camp. I had been sitting
next to a young lady who was in an administrative program to work at the camps
while finishing her college degree in management. She would then spend
three-month rotations at a camp with a two week break to go back home. This was
to be her job after she graduated. This is how they staff the camps
year-round.
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Yah, right! International? Terminal? Passport Control? FUN! |
Landing on a dirt runway and then taxiing over grass was a new
experience. I was impressed with our gal pilot. When the new passengers boarded
the plane, I was asked to move forward into the co-pilot seat! Yikes, now I
could really see the ground and everything! At first, I was a little
uncomfortable, but finally relaxed and settled in for the flight. The pilot
reminded me not to touch anything with my hands or feet. I enjoyed watching her
during the flight. And I had the best seat in the plane for taking photographs!
We finally reached the landing strip of our first camp. I was
really excited that we were finally going to see the African Big Five:
elephants, leopards, rhinoceroses, buffalos and lions. And I was looking
forward to seeing the various camps our travel agent had booked for us.
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This beautiful creature was the welcoming committee! |
But
first we had to land! I noticed there was a safari vehicle sitting along the
runway. I later learned that anytime a plane is coming in or going out, they
drive the length of the runway to chase off any wild animals that may be ready
to cross in front of a plane.
Our first wild animal sighting was on the runway! After we had
landed and were taxiing back to the waiting vehicle, a huge elephant sauntered
across the runway! There is a good reason they check the runway before the
planes arrive or take off! So, then we were off the first bush plane and into
our first safari vehicle! We had arrived to begin an adventure of a lifetime!
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A reality of life: the weak, old or ill do not survive.
Everyone is someone's meal!
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The first two nights of the safari were at the Desert & Delta Savute Safari
Lodge. What a lovely setting in the bush along the watering hole. We would
spend our time here in very nice open vehicle with only six passengers,
although most of the time it was just the four of us.
Our ranger, Qwist, maneuvered the
vehicle in the most ideal position for us to see and photograph the animals. We
were up close and personal with the most amazing creatures! Why do people want
to kill these beautiful beasts?
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The al fresco dining area and swimming pool
overlooking the watering hole of the Stolen River.
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We stopped to see several animals on our way to the lodge! Our
safari had begun and we hadn’t even arrived at the camp! This first camp was
located in the Savute region of the Chobe National Park, which covers 4500
square miles and encompasses floodplains, swamps and woodland. It is a dynamic
wilderness of sweeping savannah dotted with rocky outcrops surrounded by
marshes and the Savute Channel. The Savute Channel is one of the greatest
natural mysteries in Botswana as it alternates between flowing freely and lying
dormant.
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White linen dining in the bush! |
Along with Big Game, Savute boasts the second-largest Zebra
migration in Africa. The zebras move from the north to the south when the rains
in November and December make the grasslands most inviting. We were lucky to be
there in December and we saw hundreds of zebras. Of course, when the zebras
move south, their predators follow so that increased our chances of seeing
other animals such as lions.
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The view from our private deck. Animals in the watering hole. |
When we finally arrived at the lodge, I was amazed at the
setting. We had our own private chalet with a viewing deck overlooking The
Stolen River, which was mostly a watering hole at the time we were there. With
only twelve chalets, the camp felt very personal. We were escorted by our ranger to and from our
chalet when it was dark, as a safety measure for guests. You just don't know who or what you might come up against in the wild - especially in the dark!
The accommodations
were beautiful. Each day the housekeeping staff made little designs on the bed
as an extra touch. We had our own individual butler and maid. This was going to be very special!
There was cozy lounge with a cocktail bar, library and large
fireplace in the main building. The dining building glowed with candlelight during later dinners.
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And this was waiting for us after a very long day! |
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We were in good hands with Gwist. |
At the river’s edge, there was a viewing deck
where meals were served on nice days and there was a swimming pool.
Unfortunately, we were there during the rainy season so most of our meals with
in the dining building which was lovely as well. There are pluses and minuses
to each season, so the rain was a plus as it brought the animals to the
watering holes which had been very dry.
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And this was our vehicle. |
And this was just our first day! And we still have an afternoon game drive before dinner, and a night game drive before bed. More to come…
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