Good Morning, Viet Nam!

Sunrise over Sai Gon. I never imagined that I would
ever be here! Love my hubby's wanderlust.

Some of us remember this statement from the movie. Others are too young, but need to know about what went on there so it won’t happen again. This posting is not a political statement in anyway. However, I am sure we will see things that will remind us of a terrible time in our history. I also wonder how Americans will be received in Viet Nam even though we have been told those from the South love us. We will see …

Bicycles and motorcycles are the main transportation modes.
You see everything carried on these vehicles and some even
serve as "shops." She was selling food items here.

Notice that I used two syllables for Viet Nam. In their language, they only use one syllable words. The rest of the world has joined them into Vietnam and Saigon, instead of Sai Gon. And now, of course, since the North “won” the Viet Nam war, Sai Gon is called Ho Chi Minh City after the leader of the North. Things happen! Apparently the city has had several names over many years, and today it is still referred to as Saigon. Even the tourism organization is called Saigon Tourism. Saigon is really what is known as District 1 of Ho Chi Minh City. But the rest of the world puts the syllables together now.

The children are darling.

Following a good flight, we were picked up at the Tan Son Nhat International Airport by a Haimark, Ltd. Representative after using a special visa service to expedite our visas at the airport. The representative and driver drove us to the InterContinental Asiana hotel in the heart of Ho Chi Minh City. Perfect location; wonderful hotel. We enjoyed a free day to explore the city on our own before our tour package began.

They like to dress in the traditional attire
and take photos at holiday time.

Other than trying to cross the streets in the crazy traffic, it is easy to find your way around there. There are many more motorcycles than cars and they move in packs not always paying attention to the crosswalk lights. You have to be brave and step off the curb and keep going. If you hesitate, you will get hit. At first, we would stand on the corner and wait for some locals to make a move across, then stick close to them. It was rather wild and the lights were not timed in favor of pedestrians.

And they wanted their picture taken with
Americans! What fun to see their outfits.



Or they just set up "shops" on the streets. Motorcyclists
buy food items from the "curb vendors" while they wait
for the lights to change and traffic to move. Wild!



Doesn't look "captured" to me!

While on our own, we had time to visit the War Remnants Museum, formerly known as the War Crimes Museum. It was quite disturbing! Our military men were up against a force beyond imagination. And what we did with Agent Orange and other chemicals is outrageous! There are still children being born with Agent Orange related defects. One of our tour books describes this museum as “grisly, horrifying, sobering and deeply disturbing.” It is all of that!

Even so, the museum is worth a visit if you are there. Outside there is a display of military weaponry they claim to have captured (or did we just leave it behind?). The exhibits and photos are slanted against us, but it is still shameful to see what went on there. As shameful as the way our country has treated the veterans from the Vietnam War! They didn’t stand a chance as it was not typical warfare. Both sides were guilty of much human cruelty. Still, the South Vietnamese are thankful that we tried to help them and hold nothing against Americans. In fact, they were happy to see people from the USA.  



Many rooms of exhibits show the horrors of war.

The Vietnamese are very enterprising. During the war, they turned discarded aluminum cans into hand grenades. Today they are still selling things made from aluminum cans, bomb shell casings, etc.  These items include helicopters, bicycle bells, tanks and jets. They even make jewelry from the same metals. The War Remnants Museum also hosts a very popular water puppetry show. Unfortunately, due to the holiday, it was not operating when we were there so I have no idea of what it is.

What is the most logical place to visit after this museum? The Rex Hotel Rooftop Bar! This was the hang out for American officers, ex-pats and wartime journalists. The weather in Saigon is hot and sunny with a lot of smog so this was the perfect place for a cool refreshment midday.

The bar overlooks a plaza which is dominated by a huge statue of Ho Chi Minh. We had a great photo taken of us in front of it, but somehow I have lost it in the transfer from the camera to the computer!

 

Reunification Palace

On our own, we visited the Reunification Palace or Independence Hall (it was referred to as both). As usual, those in power lived in posh surroundings. Opulence everywhere for the leaders’ and their wives. It is now a museum. The design is very contemporary early 1960’s and exudes a sterile atmosphere. Now it is used only for State functions.

Nice dining room for a few guests.

It was designed by Paris-trained architect, Ngo Viet Thu, who combined Western and Oriental architectural elements within a Chinese structural framework. The Palace was inaugurated as the Presidential Palace on October, 31 1966. On April 30, 1975, the NVA tanks smashed the gates and arrested the President General Duong Van Minh and his cabinet. Unfortunately, he had become head of state only two days prior. He was later allowed to immigrate to Paris while the NVA took over Saigon. Today the building is preserved as it had been on that fateful day. Even his Mercedes is still parked by the kitchen door!
 
 

The Cabinet Room

Nearby is the Saigon Opera House. Unfortunately, there was no performance due to the holiday so we could not go inside. There are still a few places to see with our guide in the next few days so we headed off to find a famous noodle restaurant. We were warned that it doesn’t look like a restaurant and the locals seemed surprised that we were asking about it.





Reception area. There were several: one for the President,
one for the Vice President and one for the President's wife.

Pho Hoa was our destination. According to 1000 Places to See Before You Die, this is one of the country’s best known noodle restaurants. There are thousands of noodle restaurants as noodles are eaten daily. “Pho” (pronounced “foa”) is a rice noodle soup eaten at breakfast and any other time of the day by the rich and the poor. Many people eat breakfast at pho restaurants, just sitting on little plastic stools on the sidewalk. Often the pho restaurants are some woman selling noodle soup out of her store front or stall.

At Pho Hoa, they boil the seasoned and flavorful broth for five hours before adding your noodles. It was really good – especially when we added fresh mint leaves to the hot broth. Eating it with chop sticks was a challenge! With some practice, I got the hang of it and managed without splattering my shirt!

Unfortunately, I lost a day and a half worth of photos from both cameras when I downloaded them to the computer so I do not have some really good views of the city. Hopefully, I accidently buried them somewhere in Dennis’ computer. Bummer!

OMG! The Alarm Didn’t Go Off!

It is about 3.5 hours from the boat to the plane via taxi
and two trains. Not fun when you are running late!

Don’t you hate it when that happens! The plans for a “vacation” were all set; bags packed and 5:15 AM taxi pick-up arranged. Boat buttoned down. Tickets and visa paperwork in hand. All was well when we went to bed. Unfortunately, the cell phone used for a wake up alarm was set on Air Plane mode and it did not ring. We woke up at 5:10 AM!

Obviously, we missed the taxi and the Australian cell phone was turned off so we missed the driver’s call as well. I called the cab company and explained the situation. They sent another cab immediately because we had planned to catch the 5:35 AM train to Sydney International Airport, three hours away from us. When no taxi showed up, I called the company again. This time they told me they had made the pick up!

What! This is the line for checking in!
What are they taking home in all of those boxes?

What! We are still standing where we said we would be and no taxi! Someone else took it. So much for the 5:35 AM train. They sent another driver, who actually turned out to be the first one whom we had stood up, and he took the short cut to the station. We made the 5:52 AM train instead. Fortunately, in our old age of wisdom, we like to get places early and not cut time short like we used to do.

We still arrived at the airport two hours before our international flight to Viet Nam, but … That is when we discovered that it was the Chinese New Year Holiday and every Asian in Australia was heading home. Not only were they taking the whole family, each family was taking multiple boxes of food, clothing, appliances, toys, and you name it! Apparently there is no or little duty to take things into Viet Nam, so they were checking everything expect the kitchen sink. Or maybe that too!

There is a 30 kg weight limit before you pay fees -
per person! So everyone in the family can check
30 kg with no limit to the number of containers.
It was a zoo here and at baggage claim at the other end!
 

The check-in line was over two hours long! After an hour of standing in it, I saw the Sky Miles Priority sign. Yes! This is why we pay the fee for the Platinum AMEX card! We made a move and were checked in within minutes! I had totally forgotten about that perk. We comfortably made our way to our seats and waited and waited for the plane to fill up. Finally, they announced that the door was closing. And the plane was at least 35 minutes late in departing.

Dennis next to Hoai. We invited here to visit us on the boat.

In line, we met Hoai, a lovely lady from Viet Nam who lives in Sydney. Coincidently, she ended up in our row on the plane so we learned a little about family life and where to visit from her. Actually she was the last one onto the plane! Although a little skeptical at first, I found Viet Nam Air every bit as nice as China Southern had been last year. And Viet Nam Air feeds you very well – not like American carriers. We were served two full meals on the nine hour flight. And no charge for beer, wine, alcohol or soft drinks even in economy class!

So what are we doing in Vietnam?       
                                    

The Australian visa we have allows us to stay in their country for a year – but, we have to leave and re-enter every 90 days! So we had to decide where to go. Having spent last cyclone season touring New Zealand and it not being safe to go out to the Pacific Islands, we decided to take a Mekong River cruise from Saigon to Siem Reap, Cambodia to see the ancient temples of Angkor Wat.

 

We look a little rough! I don't think either of us brushed
our hair as we ran for the taxi. Did I brush my teeth???

Some of you have teased us about taking a vacation from the boat on a river boat! Actually, I was looking forward to having someone else navigate, provision, cook and clean up, etc. After some research, I found a wonderful boat called The Mekong Princess operated by Haimark, Ltd. which is a US company. They market themselves as “Luxury River Expeditions.” Sounded perfect to me – especially the “L” word!

After a rushed start and a long flight, the holiday lights
of Tete were a beautiful sight. All is well!

The cruise itself was seven nights on board with busy daily sightseeing itineraries. We opted for the Pre and Post Cruise packages plus an extra day in Ho Chi Minh before the whole thing started. If you don’t think you will ever return to a destination, why not make the most of it!

And watch your timing! When I planned the trip, it was based on our need to leave Australia after 90 days. I did not realize we were traveling to Asia the week of the Chinese New Year. You have seen the photos of the Asians stuck in traffic jams and airports and train stations trying to get back to their family villages for holidays. Do not travel to Asia during their holidays!

Moving Inland to Fly Back to Sydney

After a beautiful day at the Bay of Fires and a nice dinner, it was time to leave St. Helens and head inland to Launceston, TAS, where we would catch a plane the next day for our return to Sydney.


Getting to Tasmania involved leaving the boat, taking a taxi to catch a train for a 3.5 hour ride to Sydney Central Station and a transfer to Sydney International Airport Terminal Station. Going back to the boat will be a reverse trip of cars, planes and trains and even a bus, then a taxi! We are learning to deal with public transportation and find it very convenient!

Our visit to Launceston, the second largest city in Tasmania, is really just a stopover for the night. However, we found the drive from the coast very interesting and pleasant.


Unlike traveling in the interior of New Zealand which was miles of winding roads with hairpin turns through numerous mountain ranges, the trip was over a couple of mountain passes but then along a long valley floor following rivers. The countryside was grazing land and we saw more beef and milk cows than sheep in this region.

In a distance we could see huge areas of white flowers on both sides of the road. As we got closer, Dennis decided to take photographs so he stopped and crossed the road to do so. When he returned, he announced that the flowers looked like poppies. A few miles ahead we saw large signs warning about trespassing next to each field of white. Then it hit us!

They were fields of poppies being grown for medicinal use and under strict governmental regulation. What an interesting crop! And we could fully understand why they were out in the middle of nowhere. Just imagine what people would try if they had access to this beautiful flower in this quantity! Of course, we did not pick a pretty bouquet!

As for flights down there, the choice of carriers is limited with Virgin Australia being the major one. Fortunately, it is a Delta partner. The planes are extremely nice and comfortable which I was happy to see as we will be flying Virgin Australia to Vietnam and back to Los Angeles in 2016. 

The economy service is interesting in that soft drinks are not free – only water, coffee or tea. We did not have food service on this short flight so it will be interesting to see what we get –or don’t – on the longer flights as we have opted for Premium Economy instead of Business class.

Once back in Sydney, we were hit by the blast of 100 degree plus air as we left the train station. I know I will miss the cooler weather of Tasmania! Living on land for a week was a nice change. Now I am happy to be “home” on Trillium.

Next Must See Destination: The Bay of Fires

It was hard to leave the luxury of the Freycinet Lodge; we both would have stayed a few more days as we so enjoyed relaxing there. The view and the food were wonderful as well. But all good things must come to an end, so off we go toward St. Helens and the Bay of Fires. This bay is supposed to be amazing.

On the way north along the coast, we pulled off to check out the beaches and bays and take a break. The drive was pleasant and relatively short so we arrived at our hotel in St. Helens before noon. They allowed us to check in early so we went off to explore the town and find lunch.

 
 

St. Helens was originally a whaling and sealing community on the protected Georges Bay, founded in the 1830s. Then the “swanners” moved in to plunder and harvest the downy under-feathers of the bay’s black swans. In the 1850’s, it became a farming community, but changed when tin was discovered in 1874.


Today it harbors Tasmania’s largest fishing fleet so it has seen many changes. However, the bay is still filled with flocks of black swans. Our reason for staying here was to be near the Bay of Fires and have an easy drive to Launceston the next day. We flew into Hobart and out of Launceston.

After lunch we took a short drive further north to the Bay of Fires. We enjoyed Binalong Bay, which is at the south end of the Bay of Fires just 11 km from St. Helens. No white man lived here until the 1940’s and now it is a pricey beach holiday town. This is the only permanent settlement on the Bay of Fires. From there, we could see miles of beach stretching out to the north. Again, the sand was sparkling and very fine.
 

The Bay of Fires is actually 29 km long (or 26 nautical miles). The powdery white sand and “gin-clear” water have earned the title of one of the most beautiful beaches in the world. Lucky us; we have seen several with that title! The pristine white sand comes from granite bedrock that makes up the coast line of northeast Tasmania. 

It was so named by a ship captain when he saw the Aboriginal fires along the coast causing him to believe the area was densely populated. Now the name describes the orange lichen-covered rocks that look like fire.

The Bay of Fires is actually a series of beaches broken up with by lagoons and rocky headlands and backed by coastal heath and heavy bush. You can find crawfish, abalone and other species of fish and dive for them if you have a license. The elusive weedy sea dragon is often seen here. And the surf is good, but there are areas of rip tides. Guide books suggest you check with the locals who know the waters.

I wasn’t too thrilled to read that not only does the Bay of Fire have the rare yellow rock orchid and the endangered swift parrot plus many other nearly rare birds, wallabies and wombats (both are nocturnal), but also three Tasmanian snakes with poisonous venom. Fortunately, I did not see any of them!

The road does not run continuously along the bay adjacent to the beaches and only goes as far north as The Gardens. To reach the far north end of the Bay of Fires, you have to go inland and find a gravel road to reach Anson’s Bay. We stopped at The Gardens, which were named by Lady Jane Franklin, the wife of Governor John Franklin, who would ride in the region.


There is no “formal garden” unless you call it a “rock garden” which is also beautiful. And it is here! The coastline is rugged and the waves pound in from the Tasman Sea. The northern end of the Bay of Fires is not a place for swimming or surfing.

 The orange lichen on the rocks glow in the sunlight and make for a most interesting landscape. It appears to be a favorite subject of many artists in the area. The dramatic formations and variety of colors provide great subject matter for the painter and the photographer.

 

 

There were huge flocks of black swans everywhere on the water.

 

Talk About Kicking Back!

A beautiful creation each evening!

As we were planning this adventure and saw that the travel agent had booked us in a one room cabin in the national park, I was expecting a rustic cabin, maybe a fireplace and probably a little worn. Much to my surprise – and pleasure – we were in a beautiful modern unit at Freycinet Lodge, which is a resort within the Freycinet National Park! There was nothing “lodgie” about this place; it is a 4-star resort. Nice!

A beautiful location for a national park. Coles Bay is on
the left and the Tasman Sea is across the way on the right.

The lodge is set on Coles Bay within Freycinet National Park, one of the first national parks in Australia, at the foot of the dramatic pink granite Hazards Mountains. The town of Coles Bay is just across the bay and can be reached by a long beach walk or by car. There wasn’t much there, but the view of the Hazards mountain range and the national park was beautiful. We were in search of a seafood restaurant, but ended up back at the lodge.

Ahhhh!

Coles Bay, which is inside Great Oyster Bay, was named after Silas Cole. He arrived in the 1830s and is known for burning shells from Aboriginal middens to produce lime which was used to make mortar to build the town of Swansea, a little south of the bay. The beach sand here is sugar white and very fine. This is because of the granite particles.

 

Dennis found his little reading nook.

 

Not a bad view from our room - especially at sunset

As for the meaning of middens, I found this: Shell middens are places where the debris from eating shellfish and other food has accumulated over time. They can contain: shellfish remains, bones of fish, birds, and land and sea mammals, used for food, charcoal from campfires, tools made from stone, shell, and bone. Shell middens tell us a lot about Aboriginal activities in the past. The types of shells in a midden can show the type of marine environment that was used, and the time of year when Aboriginal people used it.

Across the isthmus is the famous Wineglass Bay, shaped like a goblet. The only way to get to the bay from land is to hike one of the most popular walks in Tasmania. We did not do this as it was a steep one and a half hour climb up and over the saddle to the beach. And then you have to do the reverse to get back to the parking lot. There is a lookout part way which reduces the time, but it is still a steep climb.  There are a number of hiking circuits and walks in the park as well as many free campsites. I am not a great climber, so  I usually pass on these events.

Coles Bay beach

We took a long walk on Coles Bay and a hike to Honeymoon Bay where we explored the rock formations. The lichen-covered rocks glow with orange color in the sunlight.

Again, the wind was very strong the day we were there. The weather was beautiful when we arrive, had a drizzly morning the next day with afternoon clearing and then a lovely day when we checked out. We took advantage of the wet weather to vegetate a little and read. It was nice to be off the boat in a homey atmosphere with a great view.

 

Looking back from the other end of Coles Bay beach

Honeymoon Bay below the Hazards Mountains

No! He is not doing what you think!

Beautiful and colorful rock formations everywhere!

Interesting shapes and layers.

Dennis exploring at the limits-again!



One is mine, really!

 

Priceless!

I will let the photos tell the story.

For all you trekkers out there, this place should be on your bucket list. It is wonderful here.

We lovingly refer to the birds as Bill and Thelma /
Monnie and Joe - our parents!