Life in a Boat Yard

One of the main events in Grenada is a trip on the shopping buses! Shade Man (aka. Patrick) drives a very old red minivan that tightly seats 12, but often carries up to 18! Don’t even consider looking for a seatbelt – unless you are in the front seat and in the city areas. There you must buckle it so he doesn’t get a ticket. Of course, I couldn’t get the buckle to work so I just held it to look like I was buckled up!

Going shopping with Shade Man at least once a week for five weeks was a fun experience. Aside from the fact that he had to shut the doors to make sure they would stay shut, he used a screw-driver to pull the windows up from the outside and on the driver’s side he used a vice-grip tool as a door handle, the trips were a highlight of each week. And the ride was wild at times! But all part of the island experience.

I found it interested how easy it was to discuss skin color issues with Patrick. He made us laugh when he told how funny white people are when they drink to much! He imitated their slurred speech and described how their faces turned red – especially the nose. It was quite fun and there was absolutely nothing racially discriminating about it. In fact, in all the countries where we have been the minority as whites, there has not been any discrimination issues or tensions like in the USA. It is so matter of fact: our skin is lighter and theirs is darker; we are all people! It is so sad that we are so touchy about it in our country!

A Big Exhale!

While in Grenada, we met up with several other WARC boats who were also being launched. It was fun to have a sundowner or dinner with old friends. We found Stella and John (Exocet Strike, UK) in the marina and a few days later, Lauri and Bob (Barbara Jean, Michigan, USA) arrived, too. On a shopping trip, I found Vicki and Peter (Carrango, UK) having a beer while waiting to splash their boat in another marina. We had dinner with them later that night.

Dinner with Vicky and Peter of S/Y Carrango (UK)

A night at the Brewery with Tim and Magda (S/Y Belafonte)

and John and Stella (S/Y Exocet Strike)

There is a very strong cruising community in Grenada and I could tell by the conversations on the VHF radio that many of them have spent the winters down here. As a result, they are very close knit and have organized all kinds of activities. We realized how much we were going to miss our WARC family this season!

Happy Hour at Adrift with Lori and Bob from S/V Barbara

Jean. They are from Sturgis, Michigan and we completed the 

2016-17 World ARC with them.

Most of the days here were spent on the boat early in the morning and later in the afternoon due to the heat. When we had the apartment, it was very pleasant to go in and cool down. However, we were here for five weeks total and only had the apartment for 10 days. Some days were overwhelming with the heat and humidity - and, of course, the at-least-once-daily rain shower!

On one of trips to St. George's, we shopped at the fish market. I have to admit my most favorite fish market is in Noumea, New Caledonia, but this one was fine. The women seemed to be the ones handling the fish and wielding their sharp knives. I don't know how they keep from losing their fingers!

She is cutting our piece of shark!

My first attempt at cooking shark. Neither of us have had it.

We had to bring in the patio table for our meals in the 

apartment, but it worked well. Just a little crowded, but

too hot to eat outside when you have air conditioning!

Back in Grenada Again

Cottage 21 is named Trillium

We had a wonderful summer in Michigan at our summer house (since it is the only one we have!). It is located on Lake Huron at the Tip of the Thumb. For our global friends, Michigan is the state that looks like a left-handed mitten and is surrounded on three sides by the Great Lakes. Lake Michigan is on the west (left) side and Lake Huron is on the right or east side of the state.

Henry spent hours digging sand and pouring water!

There is a wonderful place literally at the Tip of the Thumb called Pointe aux Barques just three miles from the closest town, Port Austin. Pointe aux Barques is a private township owned by sixty-five cottage owners. In its rapid growth over time, it has moved from some 60 cottages in the early 1900’s to a total of 68 in 2017. Golf carts are the major mode of transportation once you enter the gate.

And with a golf course, three miles of fresh water beach, tennis courts, clubhouse, playground and 800 acres to explore, it is a wonderful place to be in the summer. Not so much in the winter, though, when everything is closed, and the water and electricity are turned off. A few of the houses are winterized, but not too many people go there in the bitter cold of winter.

The Famous Turnip Rock on a blustery day.

Grand D and Alex 

The highlight of the summer was the wedding of our youngest son which brought the other four siblings and their families to Michigan from California and London, UK. It was fun seeing the grandchildren who had never met bond and have so much fun together! It was a very busy two weeks. Getting all five of them home at the same time is a miracle! We loved it.

Nick and Daphne

It was so special having them all home.The beach and golf course were a big hit with the boys. Golf was a new game for all of them and we saw some potential. Hopefully, they will be back next summer to work on their games. Sailing and tubing were also fun for them. Unfortunately, our only granddaughter could not be with us as she was in her club swim finals that same week.

Tanner, Addison, Max and Alex. Henry was napping.

The wedding was a lovely event at an outdoor venue on a beautiful July day. With paella cooking over an open fire the night before, everyone had a chance to kick back and catch up with one another.

The grandchildren each had a role in the wedding, which was very thoughtful of the bridal couple. Uncle Nick tops the Favorite Uncle List! It was nice to see how well everyone cleaned up after a week on the beach!

It is a long climb up in the heat!

After everyone left us to return home, we did a little road trip to visit our siblings as we had not had time to chat at the wedding. Three of them are in the "little finger" area of Michigan so we were able to spend a couple of nights with each. In October, we went to the Annapolis Boat Show in Maryland and visited one of Dennis' cousins and saw a friend as well as reconnecting with sailing friends at the show.

As summer started winding down, it was time for us to pack up the cottage for the winter and head south to Grenada where S/V Trillium was waiting to be launched for our final sail north.

On the way, we stopped in Miami to spend a little time with the London crew as they were there on fall holiday. Then we flew to St. George's, Grenada, West Indies to begin the work of commissioning the boat. It is always a big job!

The summer heat and humidity were harsh on Trillium. And the October heat and humidity were more than I could handle!  We spent a couple of weeks working on projects, cleaning the boatyard dust, finalizing some improvements that were worked on over the summer. 

The apartment "galley" was smaller than our boat galley!

And the only way to cook was in a microwave, but there were

no pots and pans so I brought mine and my 220v hot plate!

It had been so hot that the rubber bands

melted and stuck together! Messy!

The bottom  was antifoul painted and the hull cleaned, waxed and the stainless steel polished. By the time Trillium was ready to splash, she looked sharp with her topside and stainless-steel sparkling in the sunshine. She was ready for our final sail home to the USA.

On her way to the Splash Pad! 

Fortunately, we had an air-conditioned apartment at the marina for the first 10 days. It helped to get out of the heat in the middle of the afternoon. Our bodies needed time to adjust to the temperature and humidity. Actually, it had been a cool summer at the summer house and I had worn fleece many mornings until the sun warmed up the house. And we had fires in the fireplace mornings and evenings. I wonder is my body will ever adjust to whatever climate I am in again.

The Bittersweet Ending!

On the final day of the World ARC Rally had finally arrived. There were hugs, tears, thank yous, fun ceremonies, etc. before we left the dock  at the beautiful Capella Resort Marina in Marigot Bay, St. Lucia.

We all dressed our boats with signal flags and our World Cruising Club flags in preparation for the Parade of Yachts. I think we had the most WCC flags of all as we have been doing their rallies since 2010. S/V Trillium looked pretty spiffy all dressed up and ready to strut her stuff!

Unfortunately, Merc and Bob were leaving from Marigot Bay to fly home, so we were on our own with our emotions. They thought we should finish alone since they had not completed the whole circumnavigation. I thought they should stay with us so I had someone with whom to cry! But they had plane reservations ...

Once we were all dressed, we proceeded out of the marina and circled until we all got in the proper order with the smallest boat first and the largest last. Then in formation, we motor-sailed up the coast and into the next bay of the Castries.


The local people were gathered to cheer us along as they know the various rallies bring a lot of money to their communities. They waved and hollered good wishes, etc. as we paraded into the bay and around and out again. 

Parade Of Yachts: It's like herding cats!

Just a few miles further up the coastline, the reality of the Finish Line was waiting for us with photographers and more cheering. It became very emotional at this point!

The overwhelming feeling of accomplishment of having sailed all the way around the world crossing five oceans came home and the tears flowed. Having done it, it doesn’t seem like such an amazing accomplishment; but in reality, it is! I get emotional just trying to finish this blog!

Of course, there was a welcoming party on the dock when we arrived. And there is not party in St. Lucia without Rum Punch. Now, one must be careful with their Rum Punch. It is known to taste sweet and refreshing and goes down easily. But it can also put you down quickly! They have a rum call “Very Strong Rum” and it is! Something like 180 proof!

I do have to admit that I very rarely drink enough to feel tipsy, but on this occasion two little plastic glasses of Rum Punch did me in. It was early afternoon. We had not had any food. And it was hot and sunny with little breeze.. Everyone was laughing and crying. What could be a better way to celebrate?

I recall saying to Dennis, “I AM DRUNK!” And I was! So NOT me! With his help, I made it down the dock, onto the boat and on to my bed. That is the last that I remember. 

A kiss of appreciation from my Captain!

Apparently, the afternoon flew by while we both slept. The big finale dinner was that evening and the bus was leaving the marina at 1830. Since I don’t’ remember going to bed, I know I didn’t set an alarm. For some reason, I woke up at 1825! When I saw the clock, I shouted at Dennis to get up as we were going to miss the bus. 

At that point, I got on the VHF radio and asked anyone listening to please tell the driver we were running “a little late.” Now this is a big event where everyone dresses up. We didn’t have time to shower! I threw on a long dress and twisted my hair up into a knot and added a little hair piece, put on a little mascara and lipstick, earrings and some shoes and jumped off the boat to run up a very long dock! We made the bus! 

The first thing they handed me as we walked into the beautiful venue was a Rum Punch! UGH! It was a Coca Cola night for me! I think I did toast with a little wine, but not much.

The event was lovely and it was fun seeing everyone in their finery. After all, for the past seven months we had been wearing the same clothes most of the time and recognized people by their outfits before seeing their faces.  After a nice meal, photos, speeches from dignitaries and dancing, the party was over – and so was the World ARC 2016-17! 

For us, it was the end of World ARC 2014-15, World ARC 2015-16 and World ARC 2016-17. We met so many wonderful people from all over the world in the three World ARCs in which we participated. We have new friends in many countries and hope to visit them and have them visit us.

When you are out there on the big oceans together, it is a level field. No one cares what you did, how much money you have, how big or small your boat is, how well you sail, etc. We were all there for each other whenever needed and we were concerned for the well-being of everyone.

And our beautiful boat S/V Trillium, a Hallberg-Rassy 46, safely carried us around the world. Not once did I have any fears aboard her - other than was I going to die from sea sickness!  Even though we were one of the smaller boats (at 48.5 feet!), we managed to earn a First, a Second and a Third in the Rally sailing leg events. It is a wonderful world, after all! And a truly amazing experience!

We are so blessed to have had this incredible journey. Our plan is to sail back down to Grenada to leave the boat for hurricane season and return in the fall for a final sail back to the Chesapeake Bay. Trillium will be put up for sale so someone else can have this same experience aboard her. We will return to Michigan for the summer and enjoy having all five kids and their families home for our youngest son's wedding. As the Aussies say: the weddings will be "Done and Dusted!" with this last one. Life is good!

We Found Paradise - In a Marina!

Deck crew at work!

Our next destination was Marigot Bay, Saint Lucia. It is the gathering place for all of the World ARC fleet before commencing the Parade of Sail into Rodney Bay, SL for the final party and celebration. We had a choice of an overnight sail to Marigot Bay or get up very early and sail to the Pitons, just south of Marigot Bay. Since we had a reservation for a mooring ball between the Gros and Petit Pitons, we opted for the early morning sail, knowing it would be a push to get moored before dark.

So up went the anchor. Goodbye to St. Vincent and the Grenadines. We will wave at St. Vincent as we pass. We are not stopping there due to the history of crimes against yachties in their waters. And the government does nothing to punish the criminals. If and when the police come to "investigate" a crime, they don't even take notes or photos of the crime scene. Then the judge dismisses the cases because there is no evidence! Even though the yachties file police reports, nothing happens with it. If they do bother to look for and capture the offenders, they

usually let them out of jail - if they have even bothered to pick them up! Not a good place to be! Most yachts avoid St. Vincent - and there is a similar problem in St. Lucia that is beginning to discourage yacht visits there! Of all the places we have been in the world, the Caribbean feels more threatening than anywhere!

We arrived in the bay between the Pitons just before sunset after a nice passage. The Pitons are so majestic - especially when you are below and looking up. Nature has so many wonders that we have been able to enjoy around the world. And it is even more special when you can share such experiences with family and friends.

The biggest challenge in the Pitons was dealing with the boat boys. Since this area is a designated Marine Park and is under the authority of the Soufriere Marine Management Association, Inc. (SMMA), there is a fee to be paid, but only to those in uniform who can give you an legal receipt. The boat boys want to help you moor and charge you for the moorings, but you still have to pay the SMMA. To appease the pushy boat boys, we ordered a bag of ice at a set price after they had approached us.

Upon their return with the ice, they wanted a lot more money than we had agreed to! Typical boat boy behavior (and these are not little boys!). After an exchange of words, we paid for the ice and sent them away. However, we decided to stay on the boat for dinner and not leave it unattended. We all just had an uncomfortable feeling! That is the sad situation in this part of the Caribbean.

There have been a lot of robberies and even bodily harm done in this area so we did not want to tempt fate. We would spend the night enjoying the beautiful view and move on in the morning.
Sure enough, the ranger came by to collect and we had our official receipt before dark. We shared our concern regarding the aggressive young men who had brought the ice.

After more than 50,000 nautical miles of sailing and thousands of islands and beaches, who would ever think that paradise could be found in a marina! There are marinas and there are marinas! This was a five-star marina in our book.

Actually, it is a resort marina rather than a working marina. That means no real boat services, but you can get fuel and the Customs and Immigration Office is right on the dock.

Since it is a beautiful Capella Resort, we had laundry service pick up and delivery to the boat, use of the two beautiful swimming pools on different levels and a swim-up pool bar, beach towel, and lovely cabanas.

Food and beverage service at pool side was excellent. In fact, we all spent all day at the pool! As a matter of fact, we spent several days at the pool and enjoyed the island fruity libations!

There was one WARC dinner planned and as a group, we planned a second one across the lagoon from the marina at The Rainforest, so we could have a little more time and fun together. Everyone was happy that the long sails were over. But quite sad that the fleet would be breaking up and going separate ways. Even though we joined this WARC fleet at the half-way point, we were warmly received and fit right into the mix. It was a warm and welcoming group of strangers who weren’t sure about new arrivals into their little “family”, just as we were somewhat concerned about being included. All was right in the world!

The World ARC uses the stop in Marigot Bay, St. Lucia as a gathering point and place to rest after a long trek from South Africa to Brazil and all the Carnival activities. It gave us all time to relax for a few days before heading to the finale in Rodney Bay just up the coast a short sail. We will return to Marigot Bay next year when we are sailing from Grenada back to the Chesapeake Bay and Maryland.

On the final day of the World ARC Rally 2016-17, we all dressed our boats with signal flags and our World Cruising Club flags in preparation for the Parade of Yachts. I think we had the most WCC flags of all as we have been doing their rallies since 2010. S/V Trillium looked pretty spiffy all dressed up and ready to strut her stuff! Unfortunately, Merc and Bob were leaving from Marigot Bay to fly home, so we were on our own with our emotions.

Bequia: A Lovely Little Island

Bequia is delightful little island of friendly people. I can see why so many winter cruisers hang out there: many restaurants, laundry services, music, music and more music, customs open everyday and friendly, good island tours, good provisioning, and good anchorages. That is what we all seek!

It is also home to many traditional boat builders who still build boats on the local beaches. Today they are building more high tech crafts. At least, the young people are learning the skills and hopefully, the tradition will carry on.

Bequia is known for its whaling station! Yes, they are still killing whales. But before you get upset, there are reasons for it. Those of us who do not live in the various islands around the world fail to realize traditions and actual needs of the islanders. Hunting a whale with a hand-thrown harpoon in an open sailing vessel is a daring feat of bravery and skill. There are few people left with the skills. And it is a tradition they are trying to maintain and share with their young men as a way to demonstrate one's bravery.

By international agreement, the Bequians are allowed to kill up to four whales a year, but often don't kill any. The humpback whales pass on their way south between February and April heading to their winter breeding grounds in the southern hemisphere. The whaling season is limited to these months only.

If a whale is killed, it is taken to a small island on the southeast end of the island, Semplers Cay, for butchering. It is important to understand that every possible useable part of the whale is used and shared with the inhabitants of the whole island. They use the skin, the oil, the meat, the bones, the teeth, etc. for food and crafts and other traditional uses.

A whale had been killed just before we arrived and it was the talk of the town! The scrimshaw artists had new carvings for sale. There was excitement in the air. Unfortunately, one of the cruise lines scheduled to arrive at Bequia cancelled their stop because of the whale killing. Again, outsiders do not understand the significance of some of these traditions. I am not for trophy hunting types of killing wild animals, but I do support the age old traditions of different cultures around the world as long as there is some limits and an awareness of the impact on the species and the environment.

Bequians are a proud people who are descends of settlers from North America who arrived on whaling boats. Others came from farms in Scotland, as slaves from Africa and as freebooters from France. They all live in harmony and are a mixed race today. It is interesting that we don't see the animosity of the African descendants of slaves in most places in the world like those back in the USA. They have moved on and thrive with their focus on the future, not the past.


The four of us enjoyed walking around Port Elizabeth, the main town on the island, located on Admiralty Bay. They have a concrete walk way along the waterfront so you can get to all of the restaurants and hotels along the Belmont Walkway. The Princess Margaret Beach is a long white sand beach with nice swimming and a number of restaurants.

We enjoyed Jack's Beach Bar on the Princess Margaret Beach as it was just in from where we anchored and it has good free WiFi! Sailors are always looking for good Internet access and free is even better. It usually means you must by a beer or burger or something, but the price is right! And their burgers and fried chicken dishes are great!

While browsing in some of the shops, we came upon a new rum: Very Strong Rum! Yes, that is the name of it. As we read the label and laughed at the 180 proof (90% alcohol), a local warned us that we should not drink the stuff! He said it will do us in. Since we are not big rum drinkers, we accepted his advice. Actually, we weren't planning to buy it! But we thanked him for the good advice.

Bob and Merc when off on a hike and Dennis and I went lobster hunting! We were looking for a lobster lunch. And lobster sal
ad at the Gingerbread Café became our favorite lunch. While eating lunch, we noticed that some young men were practicing their swimming strokes.

Since Dennis and his three brothers were high school and college swimmers, he went down on the dock to speak to them. As it turned out, it was the local island swim team practicing for an upcoming inter-island meet. There was no coach or instructor around so he offered them some advice on the butterfly stroke they were attempting. That had been his main stroke when competing.

The next thing I knew, he was in the water, clothes and all, demonstrating and coaching them. I could see how attentive the kids were and willing to try what he was telling them. After a while, there was a marked improvement in their strokes. The team coach appeared and was delighted that the kids were getting some instruction as he only learned from watching You Tube videos! We are still wondering how they did in the meet.