We Are Back with The World ARC

Mackay Marina

Once we got back to Mackay, we would be rejoining the World ARC for the second half of the world. Our original plan had been to drop out for a year to visit New Zealand. Mission Accomplished! When realize how much there is to do and see in Australia, we decided to spend a year there so that delayed our plan to rejoin. Since there isn't anywhere in the second half that we want to spend a year exploring, we are heading back to our starting point in St. Lucia. This means we will have sailed legs with World ARC 2014, 2015 and 2016. The big WARC celebration is in Rodney Bay in April 2017.

There is a reason the Aussies have "tinnies" instead of

inflatable dinghies: salt water crocodile!

Weather here in Australia seems to come in five day patterns. Just as we arrived in Mackay a rainy - really rainy - front moved in and stalled. That meant we sat on the hard in the wild wind and rain for four days before we could splash.

This caused a slight change of plans, but we provisioned, ran errands, had service done, etc. Mother Nature always rules!  British friends on S/Y Brizo from WARC 2014 (and Atlantic Cup 2011) were able to leave the marina a few days ahead of us, but we would catch up to them in the Whitsundays.

Once it finally cleared and we got the boat into the water, we headed north within the Great Barrier Reef to the Whitsunday Islands. We had the luxury of a beautiful high pressure system that brought perfect cruising weather. Since we were exhausted from traveling and the non-stop events at home, we dropped the hook at beautiful Whitehaven Beach and hung out for five days! We needed a rest! And the bursitis in the hip limits walks on the beach or hiking. This was perfect. Sun, no wind, no swells, no waves, gentle breeze! And the scenery was breathtaking. A chance to stop "doing" and just "be!" 

The Brizo crew

Pat and Stuart on Brizo had flown over this area and told us about the view from the lookout at Hill Inlet. So we took a long dinghy ride to Tongue Point at low tide to climb the hill. The view was breathtaking. And worth every painful step!

Approaching Hill Inlet at low tide was interesting.

What a spectacular view!  
It took your breath away!

This beach changes size and shape with every changing tide!

A view of low tide from the air. Stunning!

I think a third of Australia is designated as National Parks.

Looking south from Tongue Point to take in the beach view.

Fossicking wallabies.

Once rested, it was time to head back to Mackay to join the WARC fleet arriving from Vanuatu. Brizo was moving north and will rejoin in Darwin. We will be meeting up with several WARC 2014 boats along the way and meeting new boats. The fleet is scheduled to depart Mackay on August 2.

Back in Mackay, WARC activities fired up with Welcome Drinks and a trip to Cape Hillsborough at 0500 (5 AM) to see the wallabies fossicking in the tide for their breakfast. Apparently they come out of the bush early in the morning just before sunrise to play in the water, eat and actually drink the salt water. They are not afraid of people and will come a sit right in front of you. I imagine they see these human observers fairly often as it is one of the local tours. Even though it was an early start, the sunrise over the Cape made it worthwhile!

We had a new crew member joining us. Sheila is a German gal taking a break from work and is completing the last leg of her circumnavigation on S/V Trillium. She is a scuba instructor and very athletic so she will add some energy to this crew! She is the same age as our kids so it will be fun. And Dennis can get help with his German grammar.

Family Time Kept Us Moving

Sunset over the Port Austin Lighthouse

One would think eight weeks at home would be a long stay. However, we didn't stay in one place for long. We dropped our bags, sorted out our storage locker, bought some new street clothes, got the car out of storage and hit the road!






First stop: Carmel, Indiana. Mackenzie was graduating from high school so we represented
the family. It was fun to visit their farm in the middle of suburbia and see the Upton family in action. Usually they come to Pointe aux Barques to visit us, but we will be gone before this year's visit.

Next stop: Saugatuck, Michigan on the shores of Lake Michigan. Dennis' niece Beth (Beverly's sister) and family live there and we had never visited them. Since we were on that side of Michigan, we called to see if they were free for a night and if so, we would stop to see them. We learned that her parents were going to be there, too.

Michigan has beautiful beaches and blue water AND

no salt, no jellyfish, no sharks and no crocodiles!

Great! So we can see Barb and Joe without a trip to Saginaw. This is good. Then we hear that brother Larry is coming too. And then we learn that brother Rick from Arkansas is driving up with his son, Tony! It could not get any better: an impromptu family reunion! Over Memorial Day weekend. Wonderful fun.

Thank you Phil and Beth! Hugs!

Beth and Phil were gracious hosts for the gang. They showed us their entertainment business call BAM! in nearby Holland. Most of all, it was wonderful to see the four Day brothers together and looking marvelous! What started as a little stop to say "hi", turned into a wonderful family weekend. And we are still living out of a duffle bag.

Larry, Joe, Dennis and Rick

Next stop: Grosse Pointe. This time for a very important dance recital! Miss Addison is so grown up at age nine and quite a dancer! Ballet, tap and jazz! She is making good use of those long Gallagher legs she has inherited! It was great to hear about her activities, school and friends. And I caught up on my hugs!

We were able to snatch her away for the weekend and take her to the cottage with us. What fun: catching frogs at Frog Pond, chasing minnows with a net, skipping stones, swimming in icy Lake Huron, and nature walks.

We went on golf cart rides looking for deer in the forest and found eight of them. Probably the same 2-3 just in different locations! Then I let her drive the golf cart on the golf course. That was a big deal!

Catching frogs with Grand D

And, of course, no visit to PAB is complete without a trip to the Grindstone General Store for ice cream. This is a place where a Baby Cone is more than you can eat! Miss A. didn't want a Baby; she wanted a Single. She insisted she could eat all of it, so she bet made a $10 bet that she could.  

Dennis ordered her a Baby without telling her and she was overwhelmed by the size of it. She tried to eat it all, but finally declared her tummy was feeling too good! Then we told her it was a Baby. She was amazed. I won!

OMG!

Taking possession of the boys' bunk room!

The Explorers

Actually, it was a profitable weekend for me. Miss A. wanted to sleep in the bunk room on the first floor by herself. She really wanted the top bunk, but I know how much she moves around in her sleep, so we agreed on the bottom bunk until I find a side rail.

This will give her mom a heart attack!

Her mother bet me $10 that she wouldn't sleep in there alone. I won the bet both nights and she made it her special place with books and toys on the top bunk during the day. She agreed to share the bunk room with Uncle Nick - her favorite uncle! I so enjoyed watching her curious mind at work and she is such a polite young lady.



These were the most precious days for me. I loved just watching her take in everything. She shook hands when introduced and conversed like an adult with people she met. They grow up so fast!

And she and Grand D really bonded and were busy with all kinds of activities!

Good stone skipping form!

The minnows were elusive.

My sister and husband drove over from Traverse City to spend a few days at the cottage. It was nice to have time together when we weren't involved in a holiday and all of the cooking and chaos. Vicki and Larry may meet us when we complete our circumnavigation in St. Lucia next April. Having sailed with us in the British Virgin Islands, we know they won't sail as Vicki gets seasick. Unfortunately, I did take any pictures of us!

We are looking forward to sailing with Merc and Bob

Merc and Bob from Chicago joined us for two nights while on their way to Toronto. We met them in the World ARC when they were sailing on Vivo, a boat that dropped out in Australia. There are people you just click with and they are one of several couples we connected with on the WARC and continue to stay in touch. It was great to spend some relaxing time with them. Since they didn't get to complete the circumnavigation, they are planning to join us in Brazil and sail to St. Lucia. Then it is party time!

We manage to get in dinners with a number of friends on Grosse Pointe and Bloomfield Hills. It was fun seeing the Bloomfield Hills gang. Unfortunately, our friends Deborah and Bill had to cancel their long planned visit to the cottage, but we did have dinner together. And we caught up with Grosse Pointe friends. A lot of dining out!

And I managed to make it to three of Miss A's swim meets. She is following in her mother and Aunt Katie's flip flops. Uncle Nick and Daphne were in town for a swim meet and dinner so that put me down the line for hugs!

Unfortunately, we did not get to see the London boys this trip, but they will be in town for Uncle Nick's wedding next summer. Can't wait to have all of the kids and "Grands" together and some cottage time with them, too. It has been too long since the whole gang was together.

Our time "at home" flew by and once again we were packing those same bags to return to the boat. This time we were carrying new B&G touch screen chart plotters that the company generously swapped with us. And we have the latest navigation software. The guys in Australia hadn't even seen our new version!

So we are on the road, air and sea again. And I brought back favorite things: lemonade mix, dill relish, unsweetened instant ice tea, Costco canned chicken, etc. And I even managed to bring back six new cockpit pillows! All important essentials to my happiness!

Crossing the Pacific - By Air

Heading home for a dose of Pure Michigan!

Not realizing what a really big country Australia is, I made the mistake of booking us out of Brisbane. Unfortunately, Mackay is a ten-hour drive north of Brisbane! Maps and chats can be deceiving! I found a flight to and from Mackay to Brisbane. So we were packed to the limits and ready to haul home the things we no longer need on the boat. Home. Humm! And just were would that be?

Once again we boarded a Virgin Australia jet and settled in for a very long flight from Brisbane to Los Angeles. Fourteen hours! And five large duffle bags (four checked), one roller suitcase full of electronics (including two chart plotters!) and two overweight backpacks. We looked like a mule train and felt like the ol' gray mare! Somehow we managed to wrestle everything into the overhead storage. This time we flew Premium Economy which was as nice as Business except the seats were not sleepers, but they were bigger overall and had more legroom.

Tanner reading to Grand D. The roles have reversed!

After good food, lots of snacks, libations, several movies and a few hours of sleep, we landed at LAX. Now for the fun of clearing customs. We had to haul all those bags through Customs and Immigration and recheck them to San Francisco. We planned to spend five nights there to visit kids and Grands. It had been a year since we had seen Tanner and Henry.

Sue, Tanner and Ben

After piling all of our luggage into to Ben's little car, we headed to the city. I then slept for about 16 hours before rejoining humanity. Lea in the boat for an extended time is like trying to leave your office for a long trip! Too much to be done and too little time. Then you are exhausted when you finally step on the plane. Unfortunately, Sue was away at a conference so we had a very limited visit with her. We had a lot of time with Tanner, though.

Jon, Krystal and Henry live about 20 minutes away, so we had some time with them, too. Henry has grown so much and was at that shy almost two stage. Beverly and Dean, Dennis' niece who sailed with us in Australia lives near Jon and invited the whole fam-damnly over for dinner. So much fun to be altogether!

Krystal, Jon and Henry

We found San Francisco cold and damp though not surprising as that is typical weather there, but our bodies have grown used to warmer climates. The kids just wore shirts and sweatshirts while we were in fleeces and windbreakers. We will have to adjust quickly as we are heading to Michigan and May's weather will be similar without the damp air.

Once back to Michigan, our schedule was packed with the four F's: family, friends, finances and ph(f)ysicians. First stop: dermatologist. All OK. Skin cancer is a big concern in Australia as apparently there is a hole in the ozone layer above them. And of course, it is a concern among sailors as we are in the elements all of the time. We use sunscreen and try to stay in the shade when possible.

We based ourselves between Pointe aux Barques and Grosse Pointe. Once again our friend Loretta graciously welcomed us into her home. It is so nice having a house where we have room to unpack our things. Heather's house is too small and it is better not to disrupt their daily routines as her schedule is challenging enough. At Loretta's I enjoy being in a big kitchen and cooking up a storm. And she gets to come home from work to a meal on the table. Win-win all the way around!

Early morning visitors!

It was good to be back at the cottage again. I hadn't been there for three years. The best part was that we acted like retired people! Sleeping in, lingering over breakfast, late nights playing cards by the fire, etc. were pretty darn nice! I think I can do this! Of course, we had projects to do there, too. My fledgling flower garden has really taken root and was looking great. The hydrangeas were going to be spectacular, but we would be gone before they bloomed. Family and guest have taken good care of it for us.

The famous Turnip Rock at Pointe aux Barques.

It is private property belonging to the township.

Heading Home!

Stepping the newly rigged mast at The Boat Works

It has been a long time since we have been home to see family and friends. I am in need of some "Grammy Hugs" from a special granddaughter and half of our brood of grandsons. It is especially emotionally challenging when it is holiday time or special occasions like birthdays, recitals, etc. to be away. Not only are the flights long and expensive, but putting the boat on the hard for several months brings a whole new set of costs and chores.

Checking out the rigging

Following our trip to Australia's Outback, we sailed north to Mackay where we would meet up with the World ARC 2016-17 fleet at the end of July. With the new rigging and everything else we did to S/V Trillium at The Boat Works in Coomera, we were satisfied that she was ready to cross the Indian Ocean. The plan was to get to Mackay, put her on the hard and fly to the USA for two months.

With a slight challenge with the weather, we were able to accomplish that goal. Unfortunately, we did not get to spend time in several places along the way because the winter winds were too strong.

Sunrise over the Great Barrier Reef

We had not planned to go to Bundaberg once we learned that some friends from the Isle of Mann who we were hoping to see had sold their yacht and had gone home. However, Mother Nature decided that we would spend four nights in the Bundaberg Marina during a big blow!

This is really smooth sailing! Actually, it's motoring!

Sunset within the Great Barrier Reef

As a result, we did not get to stop at several beautiful islands as planned. We anchored off the northwest end of Fraser Island, but did not go ashore. Apparently that was a good thing as we later learned there were salt water crocodiles there.

Once the blow was over, the wind subsided and, of course, we had to motor through the islands inside the Great Barrier Reef. We found comfortable anchorages, but didn't have time to linger and go ashore.

I am pleased to say that my mal de mare issues have subsided somewhat. In addition to medication, I tried something new and it appears to be helping. I had read this in a sailing magazine and I must say it looks a little odd. Who cares if it keeps my stomach and head settled! What is it? Placing an earplug in your non-dominate ear! I will continue to test the theory, but it has worked for the last 800 nm!

Final Sights to See: Litchfield Falls

We are at the top of Australia in Darwin, the

capital of the Northern Territory (NT)

As we began to wind down our inland tour, our final exploration was to the southwest of Darwin. The bus trip was shorter than the one to Kakadu National Park. The natural features of Litchfield National Park are its monsoon rainforest, stunning waterfalls, termite mounds and historic ruins. The area is home to the Aboriginal Wagait people and was formerly a tin and copper mining center. Many of the areas are only accessible during the dry season and by 4x4 vehicles. Note: there are only two seasons in Australia: wet and dry!

Throughout Australia, we have seen huge termite mounds. Most of them are built on the ground, although we have seen a few of the type built in the trees. These mounds are somewhat like ant colonies as there is a queen and her “soldiers” and the workers. A cross-section of a mound shows a very sophisticated structure inside.

This is a Cathedral Termite Mounds

Many of the mounds we have seen are built from the soil and are either dark brown or reddish brown. They range in size from a foot high to many feet high. In Litchfield, we saw two different types. The red soil type, known as Cathedral Termite Mounds were huge in several places.

Then we were shown the Magnetic Termite Mounds. These are found on the floodplains and stand about two meters high. What is so interesting is that these mounds are orientated in a north-south direction which is different from the Cathedral Termite Mounds.

These are Magnetic Termite Mounds

The north-south configuration acts as a built-in temperature control mechanism. This allows the least possible amount of surface are to be exposed to the sun throughout the day. The termites actually move from one side of the mound to the other during the day to maintain their desired body temperature. Amazing!

Florence Falls

We stopped at three waterfalls and hiked to the best viewing areas. All of them had pools at the base, but some of the falls were creating a dangerous current so swimming was not allowed there. And there is the issue of crocodiles! Between falls, we stopped at a couple of rock pools where most of those on the tour took a dip.

The first falls area we visited was the Florence Falls with its double waterfall set in the monsoon rainforest. It is seen from a viewing platform from the bottom of the gorge, which is 135 steps straight down! Dennis went to the bottom where there was a swimming hole. I stayed on the viewing stand and then took a walk upstream to enjoy the peacefulness of the rainforest. I injured my right hip in the climb to the top of Kings Canyon a few days prior.

This was my peaceful find!

Unfortunately, I missed the note in the travel information about bringing a swimsuit and towel! This park is known for its beautiful waterfalls and rock pools, but I hadn’t done my homework.

Dennis swam in his shorts as they were fast-dry material. Unfortunately, I was wearing cotton capris that would have never dried so I just watched. Although it was refreshing to swim, most of the people said it would have been more enjoyable to have been able to stay longer. That’s the challenge of group tours again!

Even though the water looked pristine clear, you can never be sure of what is in it. One woman came out with blood dripping down her thigh. When she cleaned it off and finally got the bleeding under control, it appeared to have been a leech bite! I guess I am glad that I didn’t go in the water after all.

The next stop was at Tolmer Falls to see the dramatic falls. However, there is no swimming or camping in this gorge as it is home to a protected species of Orange Horseshoe Bats and Ghost Bats. I don’t think I would have wanted to go walking among the trees filled with bats anyway!

Wangi Falls was our next stop. This is a very popular one because it has easy access from the carpark. And because it gives 100 MB of free Wi-Fi! Apparently there were a number of swimming holes within hiking distance as well as camping areas. The mist coming off the falls was very refreshing, too.

The tour continued on the Buley Rockhole, which is a series of small waterfalls and rock pools. It was like a stream flowing down a gentle mountain side with plateaus along the way. There were many people soaking up the sun and cooling in the water of the pools. Although there was no shade on the banks so I didn’t stay there too long. That northern sun is hot! It would have been nice to join the others in the water to cool off.

I suffered from a bad sunburn on my upper lip! It felt dry and was cracking some so I kept putting on lip balm, but realized later that it wasn’t the sun-block type. The dry cracks split open and very sore. I kept touching it unconsciously so I must have introduced some nasty germs, because it swelled up to the point that I looked like Daisy Duck! And it hurt!! It took about two weeks of Neosporin to get it healed – and it wasn’t a pretty sight for all of that time. I will now be much more careful about the type of lip balm I use.

All in all, we enjoyed our visit to the Red Center area national parks as well as those near Darwin. Each has its own unique beauty and interest. I guess I would liken the trip to what one would do in the USA by traveling out west to visit the national parks. These were no more spectacular than anything we have in America, but I am glad we have seen them.

This trip to Red Center and Darwin pretty much wraps up our inland touring of Australia. Unfortunately, we did not have time to get to Adelaide or Melbourne or Perth. Australia is nearly the size of the USA and the distances between cities are huge.

Waiting for the tour bus after a long hot day!

They have great trains and buses as well as reasonably priced flights to get you from place to place, but time becomes the factor when you are sailing with weather windows. So now it is time to finish preparing the boat for the Indian Ocean crossing in September and move up the coast where we will rejoin the World Cruising Club’s World ARC to head toward South Africa.

The future plans with the WARC are to go to Lombok, Indonesia, then to Christmas Island and Cocos Keeling Islands before the long sail to Mauritius and Reunion. Then the final leg this fall will be to the east coast of South Africa and around the bottom in a challenging sail to Cape Town for Christmas.

In January we will be heading across the South Atlantic Ocean with a short stop in St. Helena before landing on South America in time for Carnival in Brazil! And finally, we will be heading back up the Caribbean Island chain to complete our circumnavigation in St. Lucia in early April 2017.

We have mixed feelings: 1) happy to complete the circumnavigation, 2) anxious to have time with family and friends back home, 3) concerned about readjusting to life on land, 4) worried about being bored, 5) missing the adventure of new places, etc. Time will tell!