Cambodian Temple: Angkor Wat

Probably the most well know and best preserved Cambodian temple is Angkor Wat. Actually, it is smaller than Angkor Thom in area. But the temple itself is huge, occupying one square kilometer, whereas the area of Angkor Thom included everything within the walls.

Angkor Wat is estimated to contain the same cubic volume of stone blocks as the Egyptian pyramid at Cheops. Every stone at Angkor Wat is decorated with carvings.

Angkor Wat at sunrise.

The central tower of Angkor Wat soars 65 meters which is the same height of the Cathedral of Notre Dame in Paris. It is a three-tier structure symbolizing the Hindu Mount Meru, a holy mountain comprised of seven terraces surrounded by an ocean with 33 gods enthroned.

 

Building began around 1120 and was finally completed some thirty years later King Suryavarman II so was able to see it completed. The temple was dedicated to the Hindu deity Vishnu, whom the builder identified as the divine king.

Monks are easy to spot in a crowd. Women must
not touch them so we are to keep our distance.

Angkor Wat faces west, perhaps it was to be the funerary for the King Suryavarman II, but little is really known about it. The theory is that from the inscriptions, the bas-reliefs are meant to be viewed in a counter-clockwise direction indicating a mausoleum, whereas normal temples are view in a clockwise manner. No one knows for sure. For a period of time, it was occupied by Buddhist monks who probably had a hand in its preservation.

 

There are two entrances: West (front) and East (back). As you approach from the west, you see the causeway is guarded by Khmer-style lions and nagas (seven-headed cobras) with hoods outspread. The causeway is 220 meters long and much has been restored. It is beautiful approach to the temple, especially in the morning when the sun is behind it and there is a reflection in the moat.

After passing through the over the causeway, you reach the second entrance which hosts a triple tower. The approach is regal as you anticipate reaching the temple itself. There are library buildings on either side of the causeway about halfway to the temple.

 

In front of the temple is a huge terrace, probably a viewing stand for the royals. It is known as the Terrace of Honor and is flanked by Khmer lions. It is believed that there may have been over 300 lions guarding stairways and entrances to Angkor Wat.

People are often seen praying with a monk..

The first level is contains a massive gallery of bas-reliefs. This gallery covers 750 meters! For pilgrims in the 17^th century, the heart of Angkor Wat is the “Gallery of a Thousand Buddhas“ dating from the period when the temple was Buddhist.

 

There are many inscriptions visible on the walls throughout the temple. Unfortunately, many of the Buddhas are not there today and many of those that are have been beheaded.

The bridal couple allowed us to have a photo with them.

On the second level or terrace, there are many windows and beautiful carved columns. The columns are seven per group and are twisted in design. The interior walls and niches are decorated with over 1,700 stone apsaras (celestial dancers) and devatas (goddesses). The figures face straight ahead, but their feet are turned to the side. These dancers and goddesses with their linked arms and seductive poses have been described as models on a catwalk.

These bare breasted dancers were probably modeled from the king’s entourage of dancers, who would have been part of the royal harem. Hindus consider dancing a sacred act and female dancers devote their lives to dancing for the gods. It is through the medium of dance that the dancer communicated with the divine world, seeking to guarantee fertility for the land and well-being for the people. Today apsara dancing is taught in schools and is danced by five or seven women.

The third level of Angkor Wat is up very steep steps. Devotees were not allowed within the temple levels, but worship at ground level. The third terrace is a square platform hosting five towers – one in each corner and one in the middle. The central tower soars 65 meters in height. Each tower is eight stories and a crown, resembling a flower. The detail and design are awesome! The whole place is amazing.

  
 
 
 
 
 

 

Cambodia! Never Thought I Would Be Here!



Not wheelchairs yet! Our first Cyclo ride!

Our first day in Cambodia and we hit the ground running – well, actually pedaling. No, actually, someone else was pedaling and we were riding in what are known as Cyclos. It is like a bicycle rickshaw, but with the driver behind you. The word “cyclos” comes from the French cyclo-pousse, meaning “bicycle push.” They are three-wheeled bicycle-taxis. Quite an experience in the traffic! We are off to see Phnom Penh and learn about the history of Cambodia. We will first go to the Royal Palace, Silver Pagoda and then to the National Museum. What better way!

 

Our Cambodian guide: Paroht

Cambodia is officially known as the Kingdom of Cambodia; whereas Vietnam is officially known as the Socialist Republic of Vietnam. Cambodia is a constitutional monarchy with Norodom Sihamoni the current ruler, chosen by the Royal Throne Council. The current head of government is Hun Sen, who is the longest serving leader in Southeast Asia. He is now serving in his 25^th year.

Cambodia covers 69,898 square miles with a population of 14.8 million. One half of the population is under the age of 25! This is due to the many, many years of terrible wars. The primary ethnic group is Khmer. In addition, there are Vietnamese, Chinese, Cham, and 30 hill tribes. The primary religion is Theravada Buddhism, with 95% of the people practicing it. In Vietnam, about 85% of the population identify themselves as Buddhist, but not all practice the religion. Tourism and textiles bring hard cash into their economy.

No sampan or tour bus today!

 

 

 

 

 





The typical "truck" in use on the streets.

Both Vietnam and Cambodia have a history of French language which is still spoken by the older people. English is required in schools now for both countries. However, Khmer is the official language of Cambodia. When we visited schools, we were asked to help the children by speaking with them in English and encouraging them to converse in English.

First stop: the Royal Palace

The Moon Palace with the viewing stand can be seen from
from the street. Here the King watches parades, etc.

The Royal Palace is a beautiful example of classic Khmer style. It was built in the 19^th century and is the official residence of Cambodia’s reigning monarch, King Sihamoni, who is very popular with the people.

The current king stepped up to the throne when his father “retired” and no longer able to serve as he has health issues and is very old. There had been an interesting family feuding over the years regarding who would be the next king.

Since the current king is unmarried, as he was a monk prior to becoming king (at least that is what we were told, but the guide book said he was teaching Western ballet in Paris! Humm?), the next king will be chosen by the process that has been put in place to do so. The king was in residence while we were there as his flag was flying next to his residence.

The Royal Palace includes many structures and covers a large area. With the assistance of the French, the palace was built on the site of a former temple, Banteay Kev. It was designed to face the rising sun is situated at the Western bank of the cross division of the Tonle Sap River and the Mekong River

called Chaktomuk. The golden roofs are stunning in the sunlight.

The Kings of Cambodia have occupied the palace since it was built here in 1866. During the turmoil and war years of the Khmer Rouge reign, the palace was uninhabited. The palace of today was built in Phnom Pehn after King Norodom relocated the royal capital from Oudong.

The Royal Palace has had some major modifications to its buildings over time; nearly all of the King Norodom era buildings have been demolished completely. The King's living area (closed to public) has also undergone big changes.

In the 1960s at Queen Kossamak's command the Silver Pagoda was rebuilt due to the original aging structure being too weak to stand.

The palace is a popular tourist attraction in Phnom Penh. Visitors are able to wander around the Silver Pagoda compound and the central compound containing the Throne Hall and Chan Chhaya Pavilion.

 The King's living area, which actually takes up half of the total palace ground area, including Khemarin Palace, Villa Kantha Bopha, Serey Mongkol Pavilion, royal gardens, and a number of other buildings and pavilions, is closed to the public.

The complex is divided by walls into four main compounds, on the south side is the Silver Pagoda, to the north side is the Khemarin Palace and the central compound contains the Throne Hall and to the west is the private sector or the Inner Court. The buildings of the palace were built gradually overtime, and some were dismantled and rebuilt as late as the 1960s. But some old buildings date back to the 19th century. They were working on several of the older ones when we were there. The Royal Palace of Phnom Penh covers an area of 172,870 square meters.

The Silver Pagoda

 

 

The architecture of the complex is a fine example of Khmer architecture with the addition of the French influence, including the layout of the defensive wall, towering spires and mural paintings. All of the buildings in the complex face east and have golden roofs with traditional detailing. They are stunning in the  morning and midday sunlight and cast an interesting silhouette against the evening sky.

The Preah Tineang Tevea Vinnichay Mohai Moha Prasat or "Throne Hall" means the "Sacred Seat of Judgement." It is where the king's confidants, generals and royal officials once carried out their duties. It is still in use today as a place for religious and royal ceremonies (such as coronations and royal weddings) as well as a meeting place for guests of the King.

The cross-shaped building is crowned with three spires. The central, 59 meter spire is topped with the white, four-faced head of Brahma. Inside the Throne Hall contains three royal thrones (one is more of western style and the other two are traditional) and golden busts of Cambodians kings and queen starting from the reign King Ang Doung onwards.

 

This Throne Hall is the second to be built on this site. The first was constructed of wood in 1869-1870 under King Norodom. That Throne Hall was demolished in 1915. The present building was constructed in 1917 and inaugurated by King Sisowath in 1919.

 

The other great attraction here is the Silver Pagoda which is a compound located on the South side of the palace grounds. Its main building houses many of the countries national treasures, including gold and jeweled Buddha statues. One of the most significant Buddha statues here is the small crystal “Emerald Buddha” of Cambodia. It may have been made of Baccarat Crystal in the 19^th century – or of another kind of crystal earlier.

 

One of the most stunning Buddha statues is the near life-size Maitreva Buddha; it is encrusted with 9,584 diamonds! Before the Khmer Rouge reign, the Silver Pagoda floor was inlaid with more than 5,000 silver tiles. Today they are covered by carpeting to preserve them from all of the visitors’ footsteps. I have never seen so many Buddha statues in my life!

One other beautiful structure is the Moonlight Pavilion. This is an open-air pavilion serving as a stage for Khmer classical dance. It has a balcony that was used for viewing parades along the boulevard outside the palace grounds. It can be seen from outside the walls of the Palace.

There are a few other interesting places on the grounds of the Royal Palace. One is a statue of King Norodom on a white horse. This is said to have been done by the French and that the King would never have ridden a horse – elephants were the mode of transportation. There is a model of Angkor Wat as well. Napoleon had a residence here as well.

Needless to say, it was a most interesting morning! There is still the rest of the day ahead of us! 



Heading Toward Cambodia



Last Vietnamese Stop: Hong Ngu

 

Green grocer?

Our fifth day of cruising took us across the border from Vietnam into Cambodia. We had one more village to visit before leaving Vietnam. The island village of Hong Ngu is not accustomed to tourists so our visit is special for them and us.

In fact, prior to the arrival of the Mekong Princess six months ago, the village had only seen one western visitor! You can imagine the looks I get in many places being so tall and blonde. People –especially the children – like to touch our white skin or hold hands.

 

She is the leader of this temple.

Our first stop was at the local temple, which is dedicated to another religion founded in Vietnam, Hoa Hao (pronounced wah how). It was founded in 1939 as a reform of Theravada Buddhism. It simplifies Buddhist doctrine and rituals and focusses on peasant farmers practicing in their homes with aid to the poor replacing the funding of elaborate pagodas. 

Thinh is explaining the religion to us.

We were not allowed in the temple.

The Hoa Hao sect is a faith that started in 1939 in the village of Hoa Hao. This is a Buddhist breakaway sect emphasizing simplicity and discourages the building of temples and ritual worship. There are about 1.5 million followers today. We did not see anything that would stand out as Hoa Hao like the Cao Dai temple we visited the day before.

 

 

From here, we walked through the village of Hong Ngu which is a lovely community. It looks much more prosperous than the villages near the water. The homes are larger and very neat and tidy. Most of them are on stilts fto protect them from the wet season floods.

 

The people seemed very healthy and happy. With it being the Tet holiday, people were visiting different homes. I felt a little strange coming into their homes on a holiday, but they seemed happy to have us and wanted to be in the pictures. Here are some random shots from around the village:

 

 

 

 

 



Preparing for the event of the day: The Cock Fight.
It is illegal, but everyone does it!

 

 

Checking lottery tickets!

We were invited into several of the homes, which are up on stilts. This is due to flood waters and it is cooler up there in the breeze. Plus they have the open-air first floor for shade and storage.

Since we were visiting the village on the official holiday, we were also treated to Tet holiday treats and tea. Our guides were very careful where they allowed us to indulge in local foods and drinks. Our host family had prepared a number of traditional treats and tea for us to try.

Take a break and cool off!



 

I was especially interested in the one home we visited as they weave the traditional checkered Khmer scarves that are exported to Cambodia. This area is home to a large number of weavers and embroiderers. I purchased a couple of their scarves.

 

And the family had prepared holiday treats for us to try. It was so nice to experience some of their traditions first hand. I guess the crowd at the airport was worth being here during the holiday.

 

The typical Khmer scarf worn by the Cambodians, but
woven here in Vietnam. Fine threads in traditional colors.

A demonstration on how to wear one.

And the family invited us to share their holiday treats!

These were good  - like sponge cake, but crispy outside.

Of course, protocol is that you remove your shoes before
entering a home or temple or any private space.

Back on the Mekong Princess, we had a relaxing afternoon as we continued to cruise toward Phenom Pehn, Cambodia. We will have to say goodbye to our wonderful Vietnamese guide, Thinh, before we cross the border into Cambodia where we will pick up a new guide.  Executive Chef Duk Da gave a fruit carving demonstration while we were cruising toward Phnom Penh, Cambodia. Later we watched a moving movie, “The Killing Fields”, in preparation for a visit to the Killing Fields in Cambodia.