Ahhhh! Happy to Be in Fiji Again

AAHHH! Nice to be back at Vuda Marina!

The sail from Ha'apai, Tonga was amazingly fast. And the sails were reefed the whole trip! The wind was in the high teens and twenties with gusts to thirty. The swells ranged from 4-8 feet. The conditions overall were good - sunny, warm, etc. Just fast and bumpy. For me, it was the old mal de mare issue. I wish I could get a handle on it, but it always wins. Delta, Alpha, Mike, November!

I am not sure when we actually arrived in Fiji - Saturday or Sunday. I assumed it was Sunday as we crossed from 174W to 178E, passing over the international dateline at 180 degrees. However, I now know it was Saturday. The actual change in date has a very crooked line and doesn't really happen at 180 degrees.

 

This was the most interesting sunset ever!

Concerned that we might have Customs and Immigration issues for arriving too early and not checking in until Monday, we spent two nights on the quarantine ball. Our anchor and feet never touched their ground until cleared by BioSecurity and Health officers on Monday. Fortunately, we did not have any issues clearing in. Whew!

The welcome at Vuda Marina is always joyous. The staff comes to the Customs pontoon to sing their Fijian welcoming song. I love the staff here and it was heartwarming to see them all on the pontoon. It felt like we were coming home!

Trillium looking good with a fresh bottom!

Things have changed some. Millie's store in the marina has been closed by the management. This is very disappointing as there is no store at all now! The store was run by the local women who supply produce from their village cooperative. Therefore, there is no ice cream, ice, eggs, meat or cold drinks or beer available.

 

Being enterprising women, Millie and her staff have set up a little roadside stand just outside the marina gates! Three cheers for them! I will support them every day we are here! She cooks rotis in the morning and caters several lunch entrees at noon! Marina staff and yachties show up for lunch! Millie, you go, Girl! 

 

And I get to have my favorite latte again. There is water
in the saucer under the sugar to keep the ants out. Clever idea.

It is said that you can't go back again. There is some truth in that the second time around is not as magical. Things change. People come and go. So it is never the same! This time I am missing our World ARC friends that were here with us last year. We had such fun with Merc and Bob with the Merc's special birthday night at First Landing. Unfortunately, the gate to the resort is still locked so we won't be going there as often. To bad because their food is very good and the music is great. I guess we know it is time to move to new areas while we still cherish the memories of the past.

Time to Go West, Sailors!

Here we are leaving Tonga for Fiji.

As the Pacific Cruising Rally moves to Vava'u, we will sail alone to Fiji some 550 nm. We are flying back to Portland, OR for our youngest son's PhD Cloaking ceremony. Dennis will return to Fiji to have the hull  bottom painted while I fly to Michigan to see our granddaughter for a week. Then I will return to the boat. There will be five more weeks in Fiji so we will sail around Fiji and visit places we missed and those we loved. From there, we will go with the Pacific Cruising Rally to Vanuatu and deliver our goods.

A couple of evenings of Sundowners on fleet boats

The passage to Fiji put me on the Passage Diet again. The Pahia Bomb didn't work! With just the two of us, my seasickness makes it challenging. It seems to be happening more frequently, too. I try to fight it, but fail most of the time. I counted that I have at least ten more passages before I am back on land. I need to get a handle on mal de mare.

We are all on Trillium for our last night

The passage to Fiji was under grey skies all the way, with mainly little showers. The seas where confused in the area where the sub tropical current was against the swells. The good part is that where there are clouds, there is wind. As a result we haven't used the engine at all. The engine would only give us another knot and we don't want to get there before the weekend as we can't clear in until Monday without paying off-hour rates. And why do that! Although miserable for me, the sail was fast as we got to Fiji in less than four full days. That is flying!

Here is the reason we have Sundowners so often. It is
just too beautiful not to enjoy with friends!

We spent a lovely weekend on the quarantine mooring outside of Vuda Marina. I wasn't sure if it was Saturday or Sunday when we arrived since we crossed the 180 degree mark on our way across from Tonga. The actual International Dateline jogs through the islands so as not to have two different days in one country. Unfortunately, without the Internet, I had no way to check it out. Hopefully the officials won't give us grief if we were on the mooring too long before clearing in with them.

It is always nice to come "home" to Vuda Marina in Fiji.

We are heading to the USA for Nick's PhD cloaking and graduation. His whole family will be in Portland, OR to celebrate his achievement! I am going on to Detroit for a little granddaughter love. We have been missing each other! Dennis will return to the boat to oversee the antifouling bottom painting and other projects.

 

 

We are still undecided as to where we return to NZ in November or sail to Brisbane AU. There are pro and cons to both. The suspense is killing me - as is the mal de mare! So that is the latest from S/V Trillium.

So Many Choices, So Little Time in Tonga

We visited a number of islands in the Ha'api Group in Tonga

There are so many lovely anchorages and beaches to enjoy. Many are on uninhabited Tonga islands. Our next anchorage was just off a sand bar that connects two small islets south of Uoleva. It is a beautiful beach that encircles both islands. The reef on the eastern shore gives it protection.

The islet names are Uanukuhahaki and Uonukuhihifo.  I really don't know how the native people know how to distinguish some islands from others as they have similar sounding difficult names. I am sure I would end up in the wrong place!

This volcano is active. You can see smoke on some days.

We did share one Sundowner Beach fire with the local herd of cattle. They are the only ones living on Uanukuhahaki. The cows were quite vocal about our trespassing. Fortunately, the bull did not appear. He has been known to chase yachties into the water. 

A day sail to the west took us into a protected anchorage between Ha'afeva West and Ha'afeva East. Ha'afeva is a large island with much to explore. We had several good night of sleep here. Our trip ashore led to a trek across the island to the village where we met the local people. We visited the nursery school and their general store. The kindergarten children sang for us. They were shy at first, after a little while they started interacting.



A view inside the only store on the island.
 

As for the store, there wasn't much to buy. No bread or fresh fruit, just canned goods and eggs. We did note that the trash can in front of the store was filled with empty beer cans. Actually, the door was locked, so I put my camera through s little opening in the screen covering the window to get this photo.


We also learned that there were six or more churches for a village of two hundred! The Catholic Church only has one family attending. The missionaries certainly made their mark here. 


Kids are kids - everywhere!

This is the only road on the island. We only saw a
couple of trucks and a bike. Everyone walks everywhere.

 

The nicest house and yard seems to be the Pastor's.

This fiber was drying in several grassy areas.

When other sailors returned to their boat after a village visit the next day, they told us we could get some fresh things from Peter on shore. So Dennis set off hunting and gathering.

He returned with a whole stalk of bananas, papaya, breadfruit and oranges. We gave others some bananas, but we are going to eat them quickly before arriving in Fiji, where they will confiscate fresh fruits and vegetables and certain meats.




The pigs roam freely everywhere.

 

This is the windward side of the island. We are anchored
on the opposite shore for protection from the swells.

Skippperette searching for shells.

The Tongans are known for their hearty and heart-felt singing so we were heading over to Uiha (pronounced wee a) for a Sunday service. On shore, we saw the raised burial grounds in several areas. When you live at sea level, burial is usually above ground.


When inquiring about time of service, we got several different answers. We later learn why. There are four churches for the village of about 200 people. The churches had no signs telling the name of the church or time of services. We were looking for the Methodist Church, but ended up in the Free Church of Tonga! But we didn't know that until after the service. When you can't understand the language, it doesn't matter which church it is!


So we picked one that we thought was 9 AM but it wasn't! So we waited and waited. We should have walked further to another one. Since we had spoken with some of the clergy, it didn't seem like we should abandon this one. 


The service finally got under way.  Of course, we couldn't understand a word of it, but they were very welcoming. There we five women, seven men (including two clergy) and eleven children - and very well dressed and behaved. The rest of the congregation was in Vava'u for a conference.


Although they were small in numbers, their voices raised the roof! After the service, the women asked us what they could give us! Of course the answer was nothing. We felt like we should give to them so we gave a donation to the church.


The little children came to the church an hour early and sat relatively quietly until the adults arrived. They usually have Sunday School before the service. However, this Sunday, their teacher was acting as the Pastor so there was no Sunday School. They were all dressed in their Sunday finest and were very well behaved.

Following the service, we walked through part of the village with the women and children as they made their ways home. We were able to ask them about the island and share a little information about sailing around the world. In general, this community appeared to be more developed than many we have seen.

A typical yard and home here.

It looked like this island had been decimated by a cyclone and/ or tsunami. The buildings near the ocean had been flattened and were being rebuilt. I am not sure the new structures can withstand a hit, but they are raised and nice and clean. They even have indoor plumbing which the old ones do not.


One could not miss the massive burial mounds throughout the village. It was a lovely village to visit. We didn't stay long as we need to return to Custom and Immigration to clear out of Tonga. You must have official clearance paperwork or you cannot clear into another country.

Sundowners on Trillium before we leave the Pacific
Circuit Rally fleet to head to Fiji on our own.

Minerva Reef: an Oasis in the Middle of Nowhere!

Our British friends, Susie and Paul on S/Y Firefly

On May 2, we departed Opua, NZ in the Bay of Islands for Ha'apai Tonga via Minerva Reef. Another rough North- South trip! I am beginning to hate them. I did learn about a drug called Pahia Bomb that works really well for sea sickness. Unfortunately, I didn't take it early enough so the first few days were hard. After I recovered and had a break at Minerva Reef, I was able to take the Pahia Bomb as it only works is you take it before you get seasick. It is my new drug of choice - so far! 





The fleet at the Masquerade Ball on Minerva Reef!

Minerva Reef was a nice respite two-thirds of the way to Tonga from Opua, NZ. It is a little atoll in the middle of nowhere! Past Pacific Circuit Rally cruisers have been able to walk on dry land at low tide. Not this year.

Snorkeling at Minerva Reef.
In the middle of the ocean! Wild!

Actually, the surf was so strong outside that we were never able to make it onto the reef itself, but we did snorkel and the ICA Rally held a Masquerade Ball in our dinghies! Unfortunately, I forgot about it so we had no costumes, so we went as seasick sailors. No masks needed for that look!

We are now members of the most exclusive yacht club in the world: The Minerva Reef Yacht Club. Like the Nuie Yacht Club, you must sail in from somewhere and sail off to somewhere to be a member!



Once in Tonga, we experienced the real South Pacific. The Ha'apai group is full of islands with white sand beaches and palm trees. It is much different from the Vava'u group where we were last year.



One of several potluck BBQ's with the fleet.

Most of the islands in Vava'u rise straight up from the sea with few beaches. Ha'apai is a quiet paradise ! I love the big white sand beaches for walking and shell seeking. This is the South Pacific I expected everywhere!

Traveling with the Island Cruising Association's Pacific Circuit Rally, we had many beach events and meals together. Lyn and John actively participate in the fun and they sing and play the guitar as well. Great fun in the evenings - almost like being at summer camp!

 

The anchorage from the Ha'api Beach Resort.

We cleared into Lifuka Island at the Ha'apai Beach Resort where Matt and Jody had arranged to bring the officials to each boat. That made checking in easier. After several evenings of Sundowners and a BBQ there, we moved south to Uovela Island to spread the wealth to two other establishments. 

Rob and Jenny treated us to a lovely dinner at the Serenity Beach Resort. Since it is off season, we were the only dinner guests. We met Patty, the owner, who used to live in SE Michigan. She said she wanted to meet the boat listed from Grosse Pointe Farms. And I said, "That would be us!" From then on, we were treated as old friends!  She also served the whole Rally the next night for our big arrival party!


Patty is a very interesting woman. She has sailed most of oceans and has had more than a lifetime of experiences. Her dream was to create a secluded resort where clients would enjoy yoga, massages, beach walks, snorkeling, whale watching and beach bonfires. This is it!



The guys found the trip north exciting. I had other thoughts!

She had the main building pre-made in Bali. There are no windows or doors - totally open on all sides with a wonderful ocean breeze.

It is a wonderful space complete with candles and oil lanterns for light. She does not use electric lights as the generator is only used to keep the refrigerator cold. Solar lamps and candles are everywhere. It is a lovely get away place.



Jenny and Rob heading off for a real vacation in Tonga!

And the best time to go would be July through October when the Antartica whales come to breed and give birth. They swim here ever year for the season. After breeding,they return to Antartica for the twelve month gestation period.
Then they swim back to the Ha'apai area to deliver the babies. After several months, the young are strong enough to swim back to Antartica where they stay for several years until they are ready to mate. I wish we were going to be here to see the whale invasion.


This view never gets old!

On the Third Day, She Arose and Ascended into the Cockpit

After five months of marina living and land cruising, we are on our way back to the tropical islands of the South Pacific. Can't wait! It is getting chilly in New Zealand as their winter is setting in. 

We have said goodbye to our friends and helpers from the Whangaporoa Rotary Club and the Wentworth College class, both groups collecting items for Vanuatu Cyclone Pam victims. It was a wonderful experience working will them. Now our boat is overloaded and we will live with it all until we get to Vanuatu!

Rob, our neighbor in Gulf Harbour, is sailing with us, which makes me very happy in case I get seasick. It is helpful to have another crew. His wife, Jenny, will be joining us in Tonga. We had to rearrange the goods for Vanuatu to make room for Rob to sleep during the passage. Jenny was kind enough to endure the settee when she joined us.

Dennis and Rob in their Tropical Woolies gear

We had a week of Rally activities in Opua with the Island Cruising Association's Pacific Circuit Rally. They take a group of boats north each May to cruising the South Pacific Islands until time to return to New Zealand in late October. This is a fun group with lots of joking and singing, plus different activities at each stop.
   

We decided to head to the fuel dock early one morning before it became crowded. When I turned the key to start the engine, nothing happened! It wouldn't start again. After the episode in Port Fitzroy, we had the mechanic check the starter. He said it should work fine and showed Dennis a work-around should it happen again. Well, no more messing with this. It was time to install a new starter!

Meals were prepared. Routes were determined. We were just waiting for the word as to when we would start the rally. After route and weather briefings, we were given the signal that we did the final check of the boat. All systems GO!

The sea was absolutely flat! First sunrise on passage.

Or so we thought! I was sending a last minute email test to the Rally Control boat when I could not get a Satellite phone connection. Panic! We are to communicate our position each day via email through the SAT phone as well as receive fleet position reports and weather updates. There is always a last minute issue and this was it for this passage!

After some trouble shooting (thank goodness for all those years of teaching Root Cause Analysis), it worked. I discovered that the program kept tripping to DEFAULT. Now I have a work-around. I guess one of the blessings of having owned my own business was that I had to solve a lot of technical issues - usually in the wee hours of the night when facing a deadline!

Rob & Dennis enjoying yellow fin tuna - raw! Yuck!

So we missed the official Start! Who cares! We are on our way. We are in the Pacific Circuit Rally this time. Yes, we could make this trip on our own now, but why when we can travel with others and have some fun! This rally isn't timed and there are no prizes for the first ones over the non-existent line.

Another beautiful evening sky.

The weather pattern is favorable for a smooth trip. There have been days of high winds with gust 35-50 knots for the past month. It was somewhat like our Michigan late fall weather - without snow flurries. Unfortunately, our first day has been motor sailing since the wind is well under ten knots most of the time. We need at least 12-15 to move well under sail. As a result, we are going the long way: starting out east to catch a beam reach later in the course. For you landlubbers, that means having the wind coming perpendicular to the side if the boat and sail.

The first night was beautiful with a full moon and flat seas. Good for watch-keeping and sleeping. And the first sunrise on the ocean was spectacular! The ocean was flat calm for a full day. Since we were motor sailing, our goal was to get as far east as we could because as we sail further north the wind will clock from northeast to east. The goal is to get below the Minerva reefs and come up on them instead of beating into the wind at the end.

North Minerva Reef in the Pacific Ocean

It wasn't long before we found the wind -  and the swells. This is where my trouble began! Mal de mare raised its ugly head - and lowered mine into the porcelain throne! I have decided I don't like sailing the north-south routes as the are often very lumpy. This time I was down for three days, but I came up to do my watches.

Tonga Ahoy! That is one of the active volcanoes.

In order to enter North Minerva Reef in good light, we hove to for a few hours just southeast of  South Minerva so we could approach North Minerva in the morning. The entrance is quite tricky. It is very narrow and has reefs on both sides of the entrance,  plus the current flowing out of the lagoon is quite strong - 4-5 knots against you at times. And it is not a straight shot in! But to say you have been to Minerva Reef in the middle of the Pacific Ocean puts you in less than 1% of those who sail the oceans! That makes it real special!

Arriving at Ha'apai Beach Resort for check in

It was a good thing that Rob had joined as crew. He and Jenny own the yacht next to use in Gulf Harbour Marina. Since Kiwi boat owners much pass a Category 1 inspection and proficiency evaluation before they can take their boats offshore, Rob had to complete an offshore passage as part of the qualifying. Jenny will fly Upton Tonga and join us for the fun stuff! Land Ho will not be heard soon enough for me!