Back “Home” in the Caribbean!

St. George's, Grenada was a welcome site!

Well, we are sort of back home. We left the Caribbean in January 2014 to sail around the world for a couple of years. We are now in year four and have just reached the southern end of the Caribbean Island chain. We have not been this far down the islands in the past, so we are still exploring new anchorages and islands.

Heading to town from Port Louis Marina

The World ARC fleet completed its final leg in St. George’s, Grenada, West Indies. From there to St. Lucia for the final celebration and party, we have another free sailing period. This gives everyone time to explore the various islands on the way north to St. Lucia. Many of the boats will continue to sail from St. Lucia to Europe or the USA after we say our sad goodbyes. It will be a very emotional few days for all of us. 

The waterfront in St. George's

A number of boats will sail back down to Grenada to haul out for hurricane season. We are one of those. Hopefully, we will see many WARC friends in the Caribbean next winter. The plan is to take our time sailing back to Nanny Cay, Tortola, which had become our home base in the British Virgin Islands. From that point forward, we will work our way back to the Chesapeake Bay and put S/V Trillium up for sale in June 2018. That will be a bittersweet day as well as we end our five-year sojourn.                                                                                                                                                                          

For the present time though, we will continue to enjoy the journey and explore the rest of the Caribbean. Our WARC friends, Merc and Bob Cave from Chicago, who we met on the WARC 2014, joined us in Cabedelo, Brazil to sail the final leg. They had been on a catamaran, Vivo, until the owner decided to quit in Australia. We wanted them to finish the adventure with us, even though they had missed part of the crossings. If you haven’t been out here, it is difficult to share the connections and experience. 

Actually, Merc and I met over a glass of rum punch in Shelter Bay, Panama. Unfortunately for us, it was the bottom of the punch container and the gal filled our glasses very full. Not only were they big servings, but very strong as there was no more ice to dilute it. Needless to say more, we did a lot of talking! Most of it not to be repeated here or anywhere! But we became fast friends from that point onward around the world, sharing her birthday in Fiji and more. Dennis and Bob also clicked, so it was nice to have a couple we both enjoy as new friends.        

                                                             
Our time in Grenada was at Port Louis Marina which is a wonderful marina. It was good to be on land again after a long passage with a lot of rain and fresh winds most of the time. We were not in the rallying mood and didn’t care about engine hours, so when the winds were light, we used the Iron Genny. Having spent most of the last three years sailing downwind, I didn’t find sailing on a close reach in big swell much fun!

Since Bob had spent some time in his youth working in Grenada on a boat, we took the dinghy across the bay to the Carenage and into the city of St.George's. Our first stop recommended by Bob (who wasn't sure it would be at all the same) was lunch at Sails. Great lunch. We all had lobster rolls. Delicious! We will be back again.

The most interesting is a drink Dennis just had to try: a Beer-arita! As you can see, it is a bottle of beer inserted upside down in a Margarita. You just lift the bottle a little and some beer flows into the glass. He said it was refreshing.

We found the tunnel that leads under the mountain to the main part of town. It is only wide enough for one car to pass with pedestrians clinging to one side. I guess they didn’t consider people might walk through it when it was designed. It was very hot in the town area where we were searching for the Digicel store and the fresh market. Tough decision to make: tunnel or stairs? NOT!

Then we headed off through the tunnel to find the city center. The only way into the city is on a road winding up the mountain and then down into the city or to go through the tunnel. The tunnel is interesting. The tunnel is only wide enough for a single car and it appears to be one way into the city. Pedestrians hug the left side of the tunnel wall to avoid being hit as they pass through single file. Of course, one could climb up the stairs on the water side and then down on the city side. 

We were off to find the local outdoor market and buy some fresh things for our trip up to St. Lucia. We had planned to stop in several anchorages where there would not be restaurants or stores. While colorful and filled with more spices than produce, the market was interesting, but not as wonderful as those in the Pacific Islands. Oh! How I miss those wonderful markets!

Of course, after a hot afternoon of shopping in the market and local sourvenier shops, we needed a refreshment before heading back to the dinghy. Bob knew the place to go! So we did.

It was one of his old stomping grounds as a younger man. Again, he wasn't sure what to expect, but we followed his lead to the classic bar known as The Nutmeg right on the wharf.

The Nutmeg is a classic hangout and was still very similar to the way it was a "few" years ago when Bob spent a lot of time there.

Sailing Our Last Leg!

It is nice to have Bob and Merc onboard Trillium

The time has come to bring this big sailing adventure to a close. What could be better than sharing it with sailing friends who understand through experience in the World ARC! Merc and Bob from Chicago sailed the first half of the WARC on Vivo, a boat that stopped in Australia. Since they didn't get to complete their circumnavigation, we invited them to join us for the return to our starting point: St. Lucia. That was back in January of 2014!

The Marina Jacare did a nice job of hosting a huge group

for their first time. Good food. Good fun. And a translator!

Unless you have been part of the World ARC, it is hard to relate to those who have not been part of it. So it  was a perfect choice of crew to join us for the bittersweet sail "home." We will miss all of the wonderful people from all over the world met though sailing with the World Cruising Club's rallies. After all, we participated in three of them: 2014-15, 2015-16 and 2016-17! S/V Trillium will be well decorated for the final Parade of Sails.

Having used a lot of energy in the heat while attending the three Carnivals in Brazil, we were all ready to be back on the water. Although, we were still running without a water maker so showers were not on our "do to" list. It can make for a grouchy crew from time to time - including me. Delta. Alpha. Mike. November.

There is always a boat project and often it is

a head problem! Not fun, but must be done.

Merc and Bob had carried a new high pressure pump to Brazil for us, but due to Carnival, we couldn't get anyone to install it! So once again, we loaded up on water at the dock and set off with limited use. We haven't been able to make water since Indonesia. Each country who tried to help us, only made the situation worse. In South Africa, the "best" engineering company actually blew the piston in the pump which was the final straw! It is dead! So a new one ordered in Chicago and came in their luggage.


Our trip north to Grenada was uneventful and a good sail. There were a number of squalls that doused us from time to time, but overall, it was a fine trip - sans showers. Merc was a great help in the galley and Bob proved to be a fine dish washer! Love them both!

What a catch! A 4.5 foot MahiMahi!

Probably the highlight of the trip was the huge MahiMahi the guys caught! It was 4.5 feet long! We ate on it for days and even gave some of it away. The freezer was having a challenging time trying to freeze, but it kept things very cold. That issue will be addressed in Grenada where they are to have competent tradesmen. And since S/V Trillium will be there all summer, they will have plenty of time to get everything ship-shape for next fall.

Merc managed to read a few books and snooze a little.

Of course, we crossed the equator again, but didn't do an outstanding celebration. I was on watch when we crossed around 2330 so no costumes and offerings to Neptune. I think we were all just anxious to get to Grenada. I did buy a crown at one of the carnivals and had planned to make it a big celebration, but ... Instead, I wrote a note and put it in a bottle and tossed it overboard at the equator. I wonder if I will ever hear that it was found by someone somewhere.

We were all looking forward to our arrival in Marigot Bay, St. Lucia, but first we will enjoy our time in Grenada. There will be the usual parties, dinners, prizes and tours in Grenada. We so appreciate that the World ARC makes so many great arrangements for us on land. It takes the hassle off our hands and we always get to see the highlights of each landing location without the local ripoff artists bothering us. And the transportation is first class, as well, with knowledgeable guides.

As usual, the World ARC provided a great marina experience with rum punch welcomes and fun activities. It was the best rum punch I have ever had! But I haven't had it frequently so I might be a little biased. There were warnings: watch out to the rum punch as it goes down easily just before you do!

Olinda: A Very Traditional Carnaval

On the final day of Carnival, we took the bus to Olinda for a very traditional Carnival experience. The Carnival in Olinda is famous for its 24/7 street party that lasts for a week and a half! I really don't know how the locals do it!

It is held in the Square known as Quarto Cantos or Four Corners. The streets are rough cobblestones which make it hard on the feet, especially when being pushed along by a crowd of humanity. There is a lot of music playing and throngs of people moving with it. This Carnival is noted for its huge colorful paper-mache' dummies that march though the streets.
One of the highlights of Carnaval in Olinda is the opening day, which starts with th bloco of As Virgens do Bairro Novo. Apparently, this is a very amusing drag queen parade. We were there on the last day so we missed it.

Even though this was daytime, there were more security issues than at the evening events. The crowd was huge and pressing. It was hard to walk as you were just pushed along in the crowd.



When the various parades came by, you could easily get crushed or pulled into the line. One woman in the parade told me to put my camera somewhere safe! I had been holding it to take photos. She did not know that I also had it attached to my body with two different straps. I took her words seriously.


Unfortunately, one of our group members had his camera taken right out of his hand as he was walking. I think he took a great risk in chasing after the young man who took it. He saw the thief change his shirt so he couldn't be easily identified. Fortunately, nothing happened to cause harm other than the loss of his camera.


Another one in our group had his iPhone grabbed out of his pocket. It was a new one, too. We had been warned not to take cell phones to the events. One other guy in the fleet had a few hundred dollars stolen out of his pocket. Again, we were warned. Dennis carried our cash in his shoe and only took what we didn't mind losing. That all took a little edge off the fun of Carnaval, although, it was not unexpected. It was just the reality that hit you!

I think our experiences were more interesting than going to Rio de Janerio and sitting in the stands watching the parades go by. Our son-in-law was once at the Rio Carnaval and decided he wanted to march in the parades so he bought an outrageous costume with a huge headdress so he could get in it! It probably cost him a small fortune, but at least he can say he did it!

 

In the heat of the day and with very tired feet from the cobblestones, we escaped from the crowd and found a beach a few block away! It was a perfect place to enjoy some shade and lunch. And the people watching was fun, too. All in all, it was a great day and we were all ready for the bus ride in the air conditioning!

Recife: A True Brazilian Carnaval!

Not having enjoyed the Pre-Carnival event in JoAo Pessoa, I was not enthused about the other upcoming trips to Carnival venues. Of course, I didn't want to miss any of the experiences, so onto the bus we went again! At least the air conditioning was worth the trip.

Actually, we had been told that the Carnivals in Recife and Olinda were two of the best and most traditional. That being said, I had a different set of expectations. And rightly so! The Recife outing started at 14:00 (2 PM) when we all piled onto the coach bus and started the drive to Recife. We would gather again at the bus at 01:00 or 1 AM so it was going to be a long evening.

Since it was a nighttime event, once again we were warned of safety precautions: no purses, no large camera, take only money you won't mind losing, keep your pockets free of valuables, stay in small groups, have a defined meeting place, etc. We were still in Brazil - and it was party time. That is a good opportunity for thieves to make their grabs especially from tourists.

I had my small inexpensive camera strapped to my body with two different tethers. I also kept it in a pocket out of sight most of the time. Dennis kept our money in several different places, including in his shoes. Fortunately, we had no problems that night.

Actually, the whole evening was very much a family affair. The locals were dressed in costumes and the children were cute. I loved the way they all participated in the fun with their creativity. It is obviously something to which they look forward each year. Somewhat like a week long Halloween when no one goes to work!

There were stages throughout the city with different kinds of music in each area. There were some big name Brazilian entertainers were headliners, but we did not know any of them and could not understand the lyrics. Between acts of the stages, groups in fabulous costumes paraded across the stages.


















Here are some of the costumes:

Dennis was happy to taste a variety of street food. I declare he will eat anything! Me - not so much! Fortunately, we were able to find places for all of us to sit and rest from time to time. Pushing along with the crowds on cobblestone streets is a bit challenging at times.

Bob isn't too sure about whatever this is!

Our good friends, Merc and Bob, from Chicago had joined us in Cabedelo to finish the final World ARC leg with us. We first met them in Panama when we were preparing to pass through the Panama Canal. Actually, Merc and I first met over a couple of rum punches that were way too strong for both of us! It still gives us a good laugh. Then we were rafted along side a catamaran, Vivo, when we went through the canal.

Heading North for Carnivals

Carnival is a major holiday in Brazil and they go all out for it. In fact, they have pre-Carnival events several weeks before Carnival! Every city has its version; some bigger and better than others. In the smaller towns, it is more of a community event with lots of music and dancing, some parading in costume, others in street clothes.

Our first encounter of pre-Carnival was in Salvador with music and body painting. We didn’t really participate as we had been warned about the cautions one must take at Carnival. We chose to sail north to Cabadelo, where we would stay for a couple of weeks. From there we could go to four different Carnivals.

Our sail up the east coast of Brazil was lovely. It was just the two of us for a change. In fact, it was the first time we had been without crew since last August when we left Mackay, Australia. I love crew for long passage, but enjoy the quieter time when it is just two of us. Of course, we don’t see much of each other as one is usually sleeping when the other is on watch. It works for me for 4-5 day passages. Longer than that is too tiring. 

The Marina Jacare lies up the Rio Paraiba (river) between Cabedelo on the north and JoAo Pessoa to the south. We had to arrive at the river’s mouth at the beginning of a rising tide to avoid the 3 knot current against us. The marina is owned by two French guys and fortunately, Nicholas speaks English. They have a nice restaurant and gathering place for the fleet to relax and use the Internet. The marina arranged for  the bus trips to the Carnivals in Recife and Olinda for the WARC plus to the local ones. 

Dennis waiting for cold drinks and food.

The first Carnival – actually, pre-Carnival – experience was in JoAo Pessoa, a twenty-minute bus ride from the marina. We went at night and tried to figure out what gringos do at Carnival. First, we walked the length of the street, passing huge entertainment trucks. It was like Pine Knob on wheels! I have never seen such large moving stages or heard such sound systems. I could feel the music vibrations in my chest!

People paraded in costume and carried banners.

There were all kinds of foods and beverages available on the street. Vendors were selling everything: cold water, plastic cups, head decorations, candy, beer and soft drinks, cotton candy, etc. We found a place to buy drinks and sit for a while. The parade did not start until 9 PM and we were at the lower end of it so it would take a while for it to reach us.

One of the many large sound stages on a semi truck

The one thing that was very noticeable was security: municipal police and military police. They were perched on high platforms every few yards and they continuously marched single file through the crowd. They made it clear that they would not tolerate any trouble. We saw them body frisk a number of young boys looking for drugs. The kids seemed to be used to it and were very compliant.

I can’t say we were impressed with the event. The music was too loud and we were not into street dancing. Maybe it is a sign of aging! The young people were so wound up and excited. It was like 10 New Year’s Eve parties in one.