Cambodian Temple: Banteay Samre

We also visited a smaller temple in the Ankgor complex: Banteay Samre. The French painstakingly restored this 12^th century temple. The temple is one of the finest examples of elaborate architecture and fine carvings. Unfortunately, thieves have mutilated many of the treasures over the years.

Built as a Hindu temple dedicated to Vishnu, the main shrine is well preserved and depicts scenes from Vishnu and Krishna legends in bas-relief. It was built in the middle of the 12^th century by king Suryavarman II, who reigned from 1113-1150. It is in the Art Style of Angkor Wat. It is also referred to as The Citadel of Samre.

Banteay Samre is said to be one of the most complete complexes due to the application of a restoration method known as anastylosis. However, the lack of maintenance over the past quarter of a centry is evident in the amount of deterioration. Many of these temples were built of sandstone that does not stand up well to the elements. Sandstone is very porous and becomes pitted which weakens it.


We learned that the name, Samre, refers to an ancient ethnic group of mountain people from Indochina. They were probably related to the Khmers. Since no inscriptions have been found in this temple, the style has been attribute to both the Angkor Wat and the Bayon styles. Perhaps it was built over time incorporating both styles.

There is an interior moat with laterite paving. It is suggested that when filled with water, the moat would give an ethereal atmosphere to the temple. All of the buildings around the moat are on a raised base. The decorations run horizontally and feature the lotus bud motif and figures. There are no smooth surfaces as they are all carved.


Since this temple is relatively close to Siem Reap, it is convenient for artists to visit and use for inspiration. There were a number of young artists drawing and painting in the area. Their works were for sale

 

Cambodian Temple: Banteay Srei

Banteay Srei, otherwise known as the Citadel of Women was discovered 1914. It is located in the heart of the jungle, about 20 kilometers north-east of Angkor Thom. Banteay Srei dates to AD 967, according to early records. It was not built by royalty, but by two Brahman brothers, one of whom was the King’s Brahman advisor, according to an inscription at the site.

However, in the 1920’s there was great debate about the actual age of the temple as the various archeologists could not agree and spent much time and effort discounting each other. I guess some things never change in this world!

After they all finally agreed to work together and were finally able to produce dates for all of the temples in the Angkor area. Banteay Srei was one of the first to be rebuilt for several reasons: it is of artistic interest and due to the certainty of finding all of the stones in the vicinity.

 

When you see the size of the stones used to construct these temples, it is hard to imagine how they were constructed. Putting them back together is like doing a three-dimensional jigsaw puzzle. The technique used to reassemble the structure is called anastylosis. It involves removing and repositioning each stone block. They are massive in size!

In 1995, Banteay Srei was declared off limits as some tourist were killed by a group identified as bandits with Khmer Rouge backgrounds. Due to its remote location, the temple posed a security risk and was a target from art theft. It was reopened to tourist in 2001

Banteay Srei decoration is virtually intact and reveals a wealth of symbolism. We walked on what is left of the triumphal causeway into the inner sanctuary. Guarding the entrance stairs are sculpted kneeling human sculptures that had originally had heads of monkeys or lions, but most of the heads have been hacked off by treasure hunters. The carvings throughout are amazing – especially when you realize how old they are!

Even today there are still conflicting thoughts about this temple. The modern thought is that the name Banteay Srei translated to “citadel of women” and refers to the delicate beauty of the carvings and not that it was built for a woman or women. The temple displays some of the finest examples of classical Khmer art - the walls densely covered with some of the most beautiful, deep and intricate carvings of any Angkorian temple. The temple's relatively small size, pink sandstone construction and ornate design give it a fairyland ambiance.

  

Cambodian Temple: Angkor Wat

Probably the most well know and best preserved Cambodian temple is Angkor Wat. Actually, it is smaller than Angkor Thom in area. But the temple itself is huge, occupying one square kilometer, whereas the area of Angkor Thom included everything within the walls.

Angkor Wat is estimated to contain the same cubic volume of stone blocks as the Egyptian pyramid at Cheops. Every stone at Angkor Wat is decorated with carvings.

Angkor Wat at sunrise.

The central tower of Angkor Wat soars 65 meters which is the same height of the Cathedral of Notre Dame in Paris. It is a three-tier structure symbolizing the Hindu Mount Meru, a holy mountain comprised of seven terraces surrounded by an ocean with 33 gods enthroned.

 

Building began around 1120 and was finally completed some thirty years later King Suryavarman II so was able to see it completed. The temple was dedicated to the Hindu deity Vishnu, whom the builder identified as the divine king.

Monks are easy to spot in a crowd. Women must
not touch them so we are to keep our distance.

Angkor Wat faces west, perhaps it was to be the funerary for the King Suryavarman II, but little is really known about it. The theory is that from the inscriptions, the bas-reliefs are meant to be viewed in a counter-clockwise direction indicating a mausoleum, whereas normal temples are view in a clockwise manner. No one knows for sure. For a period of time, it was occupied by Buddhist monks who probably had a hand in its preservation.

 

There are two entrances: West (front) and East (back). As you approach from the west, you see the causeway is guarded by Khmer-style lions and nagas (seven-headed cobras) with hoods outspread. The causeway is 220 meters long and much has been restored. It is beautiful approach to the temple, especially in the morning when the sun is behind it and there is a reflection in the moat.

After passing through the over the causeway, you reach the second entrance which hosts a triple tower. The approach is regal as you anticipate reaching the temple itself. There are library buildings on either side of the causeway about halfway to the temple.

 

In front of the temple is a huge terrace, probably a viewing stand for the royals. It is known as the Terrace of Honor and is flanked by Khmer lions. It is believed that there may have been over 300 lions guarding stairways and entrances to Angkor Wat.

People are often seen praying with a monk..

The first level is contains a massive gallery of bas-reliefs. This gallery covers 750 meters! For pilgrims in the 17^th century, the heart of Angkor Wat is the “Gallery of a Thousand Buddhas“ dating from the period when the temple was Buddhist.

 

There are many inscriptions visible on the walls throughout the temple. Unfortunately, many of the Buddhas are not there today and many of those that are have been beheaded.

The bridal couple allowed us to have a photo with them.

On the second level or terrace, there are many windows and beautiful carved columns. The columns are seven per group and are twisted in design. The interior walls and niches are decorated with over 1,700 stone apsaras (celestial dancers) and devatas (goddesses). The figures face straight ahead, but their feet are turned to the side. These dancers and goddesses with their linked arms and seductive poses have been described as models on a catwalk.

These bare breasted dancers were probably modeled from the king’s entourage of dancers, who would have been part of the royal harem. Hindus consider dancing a sacred act and female dancers devote their lives to dancing for the gods. It is through the medium of dance that the dancer communicated with the divine world, seeking to guarantee fertility for the land and well-being for the people. Today apsara dancing is taught in schools and is danced by five or seven women.

The third level of Angkor Wat is up very steep steps. Devotees were not allowed within the temple levels, but worship at ground level. The third terrace is a square platform hosting five towers – one in each corner and one in the middle. The central tower soars 65 meters in height. Each tower is eight stories and a crown, resembling a flower. The detail and design are awesome! The whole place is amazing.

  
 
 
 
 
 

 

Cambodia! Never Thought I Would Be Here!



Not wheelchairs yet! Our first Cyclo ride!

Our first day in Cambodia and we hit the ground running – well, actually pedaling. No, actually, someone else was pedaling and we were riding in what are known as Cyclos. It is like a bicycle rickshaw, but with the driver behind you. The word “cyclos” comes from the French cyclo-pousse, meaning “bicycle push.” They are three-wheeled bicycle-taxis. Quite an experience in the traffic! We are off to see Phnom Penh and learn about the history of Cambodia. We will first go to the Royal Palace, Silver Pagoda and then to the National Museum. What better way!

 

Our Cambodian guide: Paroht

Cambodia is officially known as the Kingdom of Cambodia; whereas Vietnam is officially known as the Socialist Republic of Vietnam. Cambodia is a constitutional monarchy with Norodom Sihamoni the current ruler, chosen by the Royal Throne Council. The current head of government is Hun Sen, who is the longest serving leader in Southeast Asia. He is now serving in his 25^th year.

Cambodia covers 69,898 square miles with a population of 14.8 million. One half of the population is under the age of 25! This is due to the many, many years of terrible wars. The primary ethnic group is Khmer. In addition, there are Vietnamese, Chinese, Cham, and 30 hill tribes. The primary religion is Theravada Buddhism, with 95% of the people practicing it. In Vietnam, about 85% of the population identify themselves as Buddhist, but not all practice the religion. Tourism and textiles bring hard cash into their economy.

No sampan or tour bus today!

 

 

 

 

 





The typical "truck" in use on the streets.

Both Vietnam and Cambodia have a history of French language which is still spoken by the older people. English is required in schools now for both countries. However, Khmer is the official language of Cambodia. When we visited schools, we were asked to help the children by speaking with them in English and encouraging them to converse in English.

First stop: the Royal Palace

The Moon Palace with the viewing stand can be seen from
from the street. Here the King watches parades, etc.

The Royal Palace is a beautiful example of classic Khmer style. It was built in the 19^th century and is the official residence of Cambodia’s reigning monarch, King Sihamoni, who is very popular with the people.

The current king stepped up to the throne when his father “retired” and no longer able to serve as he has health issues and is very old. There had been an interesting family feuding over the years regarding who would be the next king.

Since the current king is unmarried, as he was a monk prior to becoming king (at least that is what we were told, but the guide book said he was teaching Western ballet in Paris! Humm?), the next king will be chosen by the process that has been put in place to do so. The king was in residence while we were there as his flag was flying next to his residence.

The Royal Palace includes many structures and covers a large area. With the assistance of the French, the palace was built on the site of a former temple, Banteay Kev. It was designed to face the rising sun is situated at the Western bank of the cross division of the Tonle Sap River and the Mekong River

called Chaktomuk. The golden roofs are stunning in the sunlight.

The Kings of Cambodia have occupied the palace since it was built here in 1866. During the turmoil and war years of the Khmer Rouge reign, the palace was uninhabited. The palace of today was built in Phnom Pehn after King Norodom relocated the royal capital from Oudong.

The Royal Palace has had some major modifications to its buildings over time; nearly all of the King Norodom era buildings have been demolished completely. The King's living area (closed to public) has also undergone big changes.

In the 1960s at Queen Kossamak's command the Silver Pagoda was rebuilt due to the original aging structure being too weak to stand.

The palace is a popular tourist attraction in Phnom Penh. Visitors are able to wander around the Silver Pagoda compound and the central compound containing the Throne Hall and Chan Chhaya Pavilion.

 The King's living area, which actually takes up half of the total palace ground area, including Khemarin Palace, Villa Kantha Bopha, Serey Mongkol Pavilion, royal gardens, and a number of other buildings and pavilions, is closed to the public.

The complex is divided by walls into four main compounds, on the south side is the Silver Pagoda, to the north side is the Khemarin Palace and the central compound contains the Throne Hall and to the west is the private sector or the Inner Court. The buildings of the palace were built gradually overtime, and some were dismantled and rebuilt as late as the 1960s. But some old buildings date back to the 19th century. They were working on several of the older ones when we were there. The Royal Palace of Phnom Penh covers an area of 172,870 square meters.

The Silver Pagoda

 

 

The architecture of the complex is a fine example of Khmer architecture with the addition of the French influence, including the layout of the defensive wall, towering spires and mural paintings. All of the buildings in the complex face east and have golden roofs with traditional detailing. They are stunning in the  morning and midday sunlight and cast an interesting silhouette against the evening sky.

The Preah Tineang Tevea Vinnichay Mohai Moha Prasat or "Throne Hall" means the "Sacred Seat of Judgement." It is where the king's confidants, generals and royal officials once carried out their duties. It is still in use today as a place for religious and royal ceremonies (such as coronations and royal weddings) as well as a meeting place for guests of the King.

The cross-shaped building is crowned with three spires. The central, 59 meter spire is topped with the white, four-faced head of Brahma. Inside the Throne Hall contains three royal thrones (one is more of western style and the other two are traditional) and golden busts of Cambodians kings and queen starting from the reign King Ang Doung onwards.

 

This Throne Hall is the second to be built on this site. The first was constructed of wood in 1869-1870 under King Norodom. That Throne Hall was demolished in 1915. The present building was constructed in 1917 and inaugurated by King Sisowath in 1919.

 

The other great attraction here is the Silver Pagoda which is a compound located on the South side of the palace grounds. Its main building houses many of the countries national treasures, including gold and jeweled Buddha statues. One of the most significant Buddha statues here is the small crystal “Emerald Buddha” of Cambodia. It may have been made of Baccarat Crystal in the 19^th century – or of another kind of crystal earlier.

 

One of the most stunning Buddha statues is the near life-size Maitreva Buddha; it is encrusted with 9,584 diamonds! Before the Khmer Rouge reign, the Silver Pagoda floor was inlaid with more than 5,000 silver tiles. Today they are covered by carpeting to preserve them from all of the visitors’ footsteps. I have never seen so many Buddha statues in my life!

One other beautiful structure is the Moonlight Pavilion. This is an open-air pavilion serving as a stage for Khmer classical dance. It has a balcony that was used for viewing parades along the boulevard outside the palace grounds. It can be seen from outside the walls of the Palace.

There are a few other interesting places on the grounds of the Royal Palace. One is a statue of King Norodom on a white horse. This is said to have been done by the French and that the King would never have ridden a horse – elephants were the mode of transportation. There is a model of Angkor Wat as well. Napoleon had a residence here as well.

Needless to say, it was a most interesting morning! There is still the rest of the day ahead of us!