We Didn’t Stand a Chance!

A model of one section of the vast tunnel complex

Our guided tour began with a morning trip to Cu Chi Tunnels, a vast underground network that hid thousands of Viet Cong guerrillas and Vietnamese villagers during the Vietnam War. It is no wonder our troops didn’t know what hit them! Our soldiers fought during the day, while the Vietnamese hid in the tunnels and attacked at night. During the day, they looked like ordinary citizens. I was in awe of the sophisticated system they had.

The Cu Chi Tunnels open to the public are located about 70 kilometers northwest of Saigon near the village off Ben Suc. The tunnels were part of an underground network that zigzagged from the southern tip of the Ho Chi Minh trail near the Cambodian border to the Saigon River. We had a chance to experience the morning rush hour on our way to the tunnels. We saw everything being carried on motorcycles: holiday trees, refrigerators, furniture, whole families, long poles, etc.



Tiny entrances were hidden in the jungle
some distance from the actual living areas.

The Cu Chi Tunnels are an amazing work of man even though they became our nemeses. The Vietnamese spent decades digging through the clay to create the tunnels using simple hand tools. Over 50 kilometers were dug by the Vietminh fighting the French between the years 1948-1954.

Then from 1960-1965, the Vietcong added three levels four times as big, bringing the total up to over 200 kilometers. Up to 16,000 guerrillas could live in a tunnel complex at any one time.



The tunnels were like a village with people living there for years. There were weddings, births and everyday activities carried out in the tunnels. Below ground was a complete system of kitchens with vents for the smoke to escape directed far away from the actual kitchen and exiting through secret vents. Fires were used only when it was foggy, like most mornings in the swampy area. The deepest layers are 10 meters (30+ feet) underground.



Examples of booby traps show how lethal they were!

They had meeting rooms, dining halls, basic clinics, operating rooms, and even bamboo beds in sleeping areas. The entrances and exits were camouflaged and well away from the areas of activity below. In addition, there were storage chambers for weapons and rice, drinking wells and ventilation shafts. Once of the most gruesome sights were the booby traps at false entrances. Any soldier who fell into one of those would have been badly injured. They were killed when found anyway!

Question: what did they do with the dirt they removed? Most of it was carried to the river and dumped. Or it was buried under houses, but never left piled up near the entrances. They did make fake termite mounds that held the vents and used some of the dirt. The tunnels were extremely strong. Even after 50,000 tons of bombs were dropped on the area, the tunnels are still there today!

I found the place quite amazing as well as disturbing. We entered several areas including a “workshop” where they recycled shell casings into weapons.  



An air vent for the kitchen smoke to escape hidden in a
fake termite hill far from the kitchen.



There was a sewing room where they made clothing for the soldiers. The Vietcong wore clothes that were worn by ordinary citizens of South Vietnam so you could not tell them apart. Who was the real enemy?

A dining hall



Junction: where a tunnel went to a lower level

Actual trap apparatus from the war

First you step on it, then it hits you in the head with spikes.

If you didn't bleed to death from injuries on the way in,
there was little chance to get out without more injuries.

Vietcong in native attire

Sandals with dual straps.

One clue was the sandals as the straps were different on their shoes. That left suntan marks that gave them away. The Vietcong were very clever as they made sandals that made footprints in the direction opposite of what one was walking! And they had both types of straps so you could look like someone from either side.

Like I said: we didn’t stand a chance! Vietnam has been involved in wars for decades and decades.

"The secret of health for both mind and body is not to mourn for the past, nor to worry for the future, but to live in the present moment wisely and earnestly." - Gautama Buddha

Sights and Sounds of Saigon



Sliding doors between the bath and main room
so I could watch TV while enjoying a soak!

The InterContinental Asian was a wonderful place to call home for a few days. Of course, I loved the spa bathtub! Cruisers need a few luxuries once in a while. Since our bed on the boat is very comfortable, a hotel bed is nothing special. However, lying in bed with down pillows while checking the Internet for the latest news was a real treat.

Then there was a fabulous breakfast buffet in the courtyard below! Now I am loving this vacation and we haven't even made it to the river cruise yet. With the hotel located in the heart of Ho Chi Minh City District 1, it was easy to come and go to get out of the 90 degree plus heat for a few hours several times a day.

We spent the first day exploring on our own and checking out the holiday lights at night. And it was nice to see some real television news on CNN and the BBC to see what is happening around the world. But the real fun is the world outside of the hotel. We would meet our guide early on the second day.


We took advantage of watching the traffic at night in the holiday lights. What chaos! I don't know how they all miss each other as they just turn in front of one another and dodge pedestrians. We were not brave enough to cross the street at night; daytime was scary enough.


As it turned out, we were the only ones who signed up for the pre-cruise package. Soooo... We had a guide and a driver all to ourselves for a day of sight seeing. And as it turned out, the same guide, Thinh (or as he called himself: Skinny Thin), was our guide on the ship as well! Lucky us!

One of the hundreds of Buddha figures we saw.

Since we told Thinh that we had enjoyed a meal at Pho Hoa, he decided we should visit another famous pho restaurant. This one is known for its colorful noodles that are made with a special fruit (or was it a vegetable) from the region. It is the only place that makes it and since I lost the photos from this day, I can’t recall the name of the restaurant or the special plant used. Delta Alpha Mike November!

 

After a lunch with our guide, Thinh, we were off to see the French Colonial architecture of the city, a museum, the Notre Dame Cathedral and Central Post Office, which was designed by Gustave Eiffel.

 

Unfortunately there was a Mass at the Cathedral and we couldn’t walk around inside. Our visit with the guide was too short to join the Mass. We usually like to sit in a pew for a while and have a quiet moment, light candles, etc., but we were on a schedule this time so it didn’t work out that way.

 

Notre Dame Cathedral Saigon

 
 

Central Post Office

Our next stop was the Central Post Office designed by Gustave Eiffel in traditional French Colonia styling. It seems that everyone has their own little market set up outside the post office - and everywhere on the streets! You could buy all kinds of things from individuals sitting on the curb or from their bicycles or motorcycles. They sell goods and foods that they make.

Traditional apricot tree in the Post Office
as a Tete holiday decoration. The yellow   
flower is symbolic of the King.

The yellow apricot flower is the traditional symbol for good luck and health. The yellow color shows respect to the King. While there was a king, he was the only person who was allowed to wear the yellow.

Interior of the post office

Then it was off to the famous Benh Thanh Market. Like many other markets we have seen around the world, it was a smaller version of the bazaars of Istanbul. There was everything available and too much of it. Stall after stall. Since I am not a shopper, I just like to visit to take in the atmosphere and then get out of there quickly. I don’t like haggling over prices and being followed by pushy sales people. A quick walk through was enough for me. Thank you very much! The prices are ridiculously cheap so I should have done some Christmas shopping!

Since it was the New Year holiday, the city was decorated with the traditional apricot blossoms. The streets were lit up at night like Christmas in the USA. And we saw the most beautiful orchids everywhere. The flowering apricot tree is the traditional holiday tree of Vietnam and it is seen everywhere. The larger ones are very expensive yet even the poorest people have one. We saw a number of them being transported on the back of motorcycles just like we throw Christmas trees on top of the car and drive home.
 

Now you can enjoy a walk through the market with these photos.

 

 

 

 

 

Red Dragon Fruit

 

It is now time for me to pack the bags and head to The Mekong Princess tomorrow. I have enjoyed the lovely bathtub in the InterContinental. I think I will have one on the river cruise as well. A long soak is a real treat for a world cruiser!

Good Morning, Viet Nam!

Sunrise over Sai Gon. I never imagined that I would
ever be here! Love my hubby's wanderlust.

Some of us remember this statement from the movie. Others are too young, but need to know about what went on there so it won’t happen again. This posting is not a political statement in anyway. However, I am sure we will see things that will remind us of a terrible time in our history. I also wonder how Americans will be received in Viet Nam even though we have been told those from the South love us. We will see …

Bicycles and motorcycles are the main transportation modes.
You see everything carried on these vehicles and some even
serve as "shops." She was selling food items here.

Notice that I used two syllables for Viet Nam. In their language, they only use one syllable words. The rest of the world has joined them into Vietnam and Saigon, instead of Sai Gon. And now, of course, since the North “won” the Viet Nam war, Sai Gon is called Ho Chi Minh City after the leader of the North. Things happen! Apparently the city has had several names over many years, and today it is still referred to as Saigon. Even the tourism organization is called Saigon Tourism. Saigon is really what is known as District 1 of Ho Chi Minh City. But the rest of the world puts the syllables together now.

The children are darling.

Following a good flight, we were picked up at the Tan Son Nhat International Airport by a Haimark, Ltd. Representative after using a special visa service to expedite our visas at the airport. The representative and driver drove us to the InterContinental Asiana hotel in the heart of Ho Chi Minh City. Perfect location; wonderful hotel. We enjoyed a free day to explore the city on our own before our tour package began.

They like to dress in the traditional attire
and take photos at holiday time.

Other than trying to cross the streets in the crazy traffic, it is easy to find your way around there. There are many more motorcycles than cars and they move in packs not always paying attention to the crosswalk lights. You have to be brave and step off the curb and keep going. If you hesitate, you will get hit. At first, we would stand on the corner and wait for some locals to make a move across, then stick close to them. It was rather wild and the lights were not timed in favor of pedestrians.

And they wanted their picture taken with
Americans! What fun to see their outfits.



Or they just set up "shops" on the streets. Motorcyclists
buy food items from the "curb vendors" while they wait
for the lights to change and traffic to move. Wild!



Doesn't look "captured" to me!

While on our own, we had time to visit the War Remnants Museum, formerly known as the War Crimes Museum. It was quite disturbing! Our military men were up against a force beyond imagination. And what we did with Agent Orange and other chemicals is outrageous! There are still children being born with Agent Orange related defects. One of our tour books describes this museum as “grisly, horrifying, sobering and deeply disturbing.” It is all of that!

Even so, the museum is worth a visit if you are there. Outside there is a display of military weaponry they claim to have captured (or did we just leave it behind?). The exhibits and photos are slanted against us, but it is still shameful to see what went on there. As shameful as the way our country has treated the veterans from the Vietnam War! They didn’t stand a chance as it was not typical warfare. Both sides were guilty of much human cruelty. Still, the South Vietnamese are thankful that we tried to help them and hold nothing against Americans. In fact, they were happy to see people from the USA.  



Many rooms of exhibits show the horrors of war.

The Vietnamese are very enterprising. During the war, they turned discarded aluminum cans into hand grenades. Today they are still selling things made from aluminum cans, bomb shell casings, etc.  These items include helicopters, bicycle bells, tanks and jets. They even make jewelry from the same metals. The War Remnants Museum also hosts a very popular water puppetry show. Unfortunately, due to the holiday, it was not operating when we were there so I have no idea of what it is.

What is the most logical place to visit after this museum? The Rex Hotel Rooftop Bar! This was the hang out for American officers, ex-pats and wartime journalists. The weather in Saigon is hot and sunny with a lot of smog so this was the perfect place for a cool refreshment midday.

The bar overlooks a plaza which is dominated by a huge statue of Ho Chi Minh. We had a great photo taken of us in front of it, but somehow I have lost it in the transfer from the camera to the computer!

 

Reunification Palace

On our own, we visited the Reunification Palace or Independence Hall (it was referred to as both). As usual, those in power lived in posh surroundings. Opulence everywhere for the leaders’ and their wives. It is now a museum. The design is very contemporary early 1960’s and exudes a sterile atmosphere. Now it is used only for State functions.

Nice dining room for a few guests.

It was designed by Paris-trained architect, Ngo Viet Thu, who combined Western and Oriental architectural elements within a Chinese structural framework. The Palace was inaugurated as the Presidential Palace on October, 31 1966. On April 30, 1975, the NVA tanks smashed the gates and arrested the President General Duong Van Minh and his cabinet. Unfortunately, he had become head of state only two days prior. He was later allowed to immigrate to Paris while the NVA took over Saigon. Today the building is preserved as it had been on that fateful day. Even his Mercedes is still parked by the kitchen door!
 
 

The Cabinet Room

Nearby is the Saigon Opera House. Unfortunately, there was no performance due to the holiday so we could not go inside. There are still a few places to see with our guide in the next few days so we headed off to find a famous noodle restaurant. We were warned that it doesn’t look like a restaurant and the locals seemed surprised that we were asking about it.





Reception area. There were several: one for the President,
one for the Vice President and one for the President's wife.

Pho Hoa was our destination. According to 1000 Places to See Before You Die, this is one of the country’s best known noodle restaurants. There are thousands of noodle restaurants as noodles are eaten daily. “Pho” (pronounced “foa”) is a rice noodle soup eaten at breakfast and any other time of the day by the rich and the poor. Many people eat breakfast at pho restaurants, just sitting on little plastic stools on the sidewalk. Often the pho restaurants are some woman selling noodle soup out of her store front or stall.

At Pho Hoa, they boil the seasoned and flavorful broth for five hours before adding your noodles. It was really good – especially when we added fresh mint leaves to the hot broth. Eating it with chop sticks was a challenge! With some practice, I got the hang of it and managed without splattering my shirt!

Unfortunately, I lost a day and a half worth of photos from both cameras when I downloaded them to the computer so I do not have some really good views of the city. Hopefully, I accidently buried them somewhere in Dennis’ computer. Bummer!

OMG! The Alarm Didn’t Go Off!

It is about 3.5 hours from the boat to the plane via taxi
and two trains. Not fun when you are running late!

Don’t you hate it when that happens! The plans for a “vacation” were all set; bags packed and 5:15 AM taxi pick-up arranged. Boat buttoned down. Tickets and visa paperwork in hand. All was well when we went to bed. Unfortunately, the cell phone used for a wake up alarm was set on Air Plane mode and it did not ring. We woke up at 5:10 AM!

Obviously, we missed the taxi and the Australian cell phone was turned off so we missed the driver’s call as well. I called the cab company and explained the situation. They sent another cab immediately because we had planned to catch the 5:35 AM train to Sydney International Airport, three hours away from us. When no taxi showed up, I called the company again. This time they told me they had made the pick up!

What! This is the line for checking in!
What are they taking home in all of those boxes?

What! We are still standing where we said we would be and no taxi! Someone else took it. So much for the 5:35 AM train. They sent another driver, who actually turned out to be the first one whom we had stood up, and he took the short cut to the station. We made the 5:52 AM train instead. Fortunately, in our old age of wisdom, we like to get places early and not cut time short like we used to do.

We still arrived at the airport two hours before our international flight to Viet Nam, but … That is when we discovered that it was the Chinese New Year Holiday and every Asian in Australia was heading home. Not only were they taking the whole family, each family was taking multiple boxes of food, clothing, appliances, toys, and you name it! Apparently there is no or little duty to take things into Viet Nam, so they were checking everything expect the kitchen sink. Or maybe that too!

There is a 30 kg weight limit before you pay fees -
per person! So everyone in the family can check
30 kg with no limit to the number of containers.
It was a zoo here and at baggage claim at the other end!
 

The check-in line was over two hours long! After an hour of standing in it, I saw the Sky Miles Priority sign. Yes! This is why we pay the fee for the Platinum AMEX card! We made a move and were checked in within minutes! I had totally forgotten about that perk. We comfortably made our way to our seats and waited and waited for the plane to fill up. Finally, they announced that the door was closing. And the plane was at least 35 minutes late in departing.

Dennis next to Hoai. We invited here to visit us on the boat.

In line, we met Hoai, a lovely lady from Viet Nam who lives in Sydney. Coincidently, she ended up in our row on the plane so we learned a little about family life and where to visit from her. Actually she was the last one onto the plane! Although a little skeptical at first, I found Viet Nam Air every bit as nice as China Southern had been last year. And Viet Nam Air feeds you very well – not like American carriers. We were served two full meals on the nine hour flight. And no charge for beer, wine, alcohol or soft drinks even in economy class!

So what are we doing in Vietnam?       
                                    

The Australian visa we have allows us to stay in their country for a year – but, we have to leave and re-enter every 90 days! So we had to decide where to go. Having spent last cyclone season touring New Zealand and it not being safe to go out to the Pacific Islands, we decided to take a Mekong River cruise from Saigon to Siem Reap, Cambodia to see the ancient temples of Angkor Wat.

 

We look a little rough! I don't think either of us brushed
our hair as we ran for the taxi. Did I brush my teeth???

Some of you have teased us about taking a vacation from the boat on a river boat! Actually, I was looking forward to having someone else navigate, provision, cook and clean up, etc. After some research, I found a wonderful boat called The Mekong Princess operated by Haimark, Ltd. which is a US company. They market themselves as “Luxury River Expeditions.” Sounded perfect to me – especially the “L” word!

After a rushed start and a long flight, the holiday lights
of Tete were a beautiful sight. All is well!

The cruise itself was seven nights on board with busy daily sightseeing itineraries. We opted for the Pre and Post Cruise packages plus an extra day in Ho Chi Minh before the whole thing started. If you don’t think you will ever return to a destination, why not make the most of it!

And watch your timing! When I planned the trip, it was based on our need to leave Australia after 90 days. I did not realize we were traveling to Asia the week of the Chinese New Year. You have seen the photos of the Asians stuck in traffic jams and airports and train stations trying to get back to their family villages for holidays. Do not travel to Asia during their holidays!