Talk About Kicking Back!

A beautiful creation each evening!

As we were planning this adventure and saw that the travel agent had booked us in a one room cabin in the national park, I was expecting a rustic cabin, maybe a fireplace and probably a little worn. Much to my surprise – and pleasure – we were in a beautiful modern unit at Freycinet Lodge, which is a resort within the Freycinet National Park! There was nothing “lodgie” about this place; it is a 4-star resort. Nice!

A beautiful location for a national park. Coles Bay is on
the left and the Tasman Sea is across the way on the right.

The lodge is set on Coles Bay within Freycinet National Park, one of the first national parks in Australia, at the foot of the dramatic pink granite Hazards Mountains. The town of Coles Bay is just across the bay and can be reached by a long beach walk or by car. There wasn’t much there, but the view of the Hazards mountain range and the national park was beautiful. We were in search of a seafood restaurant, but ended up back at the lodge.

Ahhhh!

Coles Bay, which is inside Great Oyster Bay, was named after Silas Cole. He arrived in the 1830s and is known for burning shells from Aboriginal middens to produce lime which was used to make mortar to build the town of Swansea, a little south of the bay. The beach sand here is sugar white and very fine. This is because of the granite particles.

 

Dennis found his little reading nook.

 

Not a bad view from our room - especially at sunset

As for the meaning of middens, I found this: Shell middens are places where the debris from eating shellfish and other food has accumulated over time. They can contain: shellfish remains, bones of fish, birds, and land and sea mammals, used for food, charcoal from campfires, tools made from stone, shell, and bone. Shell middens tell us a lot about Aboriginal activities in the past. The types of shells in a midden can show the type of marine environment that was used, and the time of year when Aboriginal people used it.

Across the isthmus is the famous Wineglass Bay, shaped like a goblet. The only way to get to the bay from land is to hike one of the most popular walks in Tasmania. We did not do this as it was a steep one and a half hour climb up and over the saddle to the beach. And then you have to do the reverse to get back to the parking lot. There is a lookout part way which reduces the time, but it is still a steep climb.  There are a number of hiking circuits and walks in the park as well as many free campsites. I am not a great climber, so  I usually pass on these events.

Coles Bay beach

We took a long walk on Coles Bay and a hike to Honeymoon Bay where we explored the rock formations. The lichen-covered rocks glow with orange color in the sunlight.

Again, the wind was very strong the day we were there. The weather was beautiful when we arrive, had a drizzly morning the next day with afternoon clearing and then a lovely day when we checked out. We took advantage of the wet weather to vegetate a little and read. It was nice to be off the boat in a homey atmosphere with a great view.

 

Looking back from the other end of Coles Bay beach

Honeymoon Bay below the Hazards Mountains

No! He is not doing what you think!

Beautiful and colorful rock formations everywhere!

Interesting shapes and layers.

Dennis exploring at the limits-again!



One is mine, really!

 

Priceless!

I will let the photos tell the story.

For all you trekkers out there, this place should be on your bucket list. It is wonderful here.

We lovingly refer to the birds as Bill and Thelma /
Monnie and Joe - our parents!

Off to Find the Beautiful Beaches

One night in Richmond was enough. At least we were out of the city  of Hobart and somewhat on our way to the Freycinet National Park where we would stay at Freycinet Lodge for two nights. We tried a few places for Sunday dinner in Richmond, only to be told the kitchen was closing or that they only had snacks. Finally, we found a lovely winery cellar door in town! And it had a restaurant!

There was only one couple eating and a few outside tasting wine. It looked like they were getting ready to close, too, but the owner and his wife were smart business people and offered to cook us a meal even though the chef had left for the day. While we waited for food, several more customers arrived so I think they had more business than they expected on a late Sunday afternoon. Hopefully they will keep the doors open a little later during tourist season.

Our lodging was an interesting experience. The place looked good on paper, but was rather eclectic and needed some TLC. A family has owned the property for 30 years and they looked as weary as the place. It was clean and it sort of grew on us, but I was glad it was only for one night. The place is called a “manor” on  a 100 acre working farm and is publicized as an event and wedding venue. Humm…

They turn the horses and sheep loose to “mow” the grass so the entry gate has to be closed while they are grazing. Larry, the ram, greets you with several loud Baaaas! Then he settles down. The owners were lovely people, but the furnishings and layout left something to be desired. But it was just a place to get a good night’s rest and we did. Breakfast was hearty and served with a pitcher of home-grown apricot juice. They used to raise a lot of apricots and made apricot wine. The orchards have aged and the production is low now.

Now we are off in search of the beautiful white sand beaches of Tasmania. And, boy, did we find them. They are miles long, wide and windy. The wind coming off the Tasman Sea gave us a sandblasting and forget wearing a hat or visor if you ever want to see it again! They are absolutely stunning. Second only to the Loyalty Islands of New Caledonia.

 The biggest difference besides the wind is the various rock formations along the beaches. There are no crowds as these beaches are a long way from population centers so it would be a weekend trek or holiday vacation to bring crowds out there. You can just pull off the road onto a track and head toward the beach. People were camping near the water in many places.

We finally found a place to eat on Sunday night!

Along the way we stopped at Convicts’ Spikey Bridge to see a rock bridge build by convicts. Like I mentioned before, a lot of Aussie history centers on the convicts.

There are a number of Convict Bridges in Tasmania, but this one is known for its rock spikes. It was in service until they moved the highway a few years back. We drove across it just to do it!

For lunch we found Kates Berry Farm and saw an interesting array of ice cream flavors, including lavender. I had a taste – nothing distinctive.

This was the first stop along the way! Beautiful!

 

We stopped at several beaches along the road,

 

Convicts' Spikey Bridge

 

This is how it got its name!

Time to keep going toward the Freycinet National Park to get there before dark.

Sunday in Hobart and Beyond

Though smaller, the Farm Gate Market is a real farmers' one.

There were two things we wanted to do on Sunday before leaving Hobart. One was to visit the Farm Gate Market which was just down the street from our hotel. This is a relatively new market and it is in the heart of town, not on the waterfront. It is a true farmers’ market as the goal is bringing Tasmanian produce and products to the city and allowing the shoppers to get to know the farmers. Hopefully, it will create a following of locals to sustain the market's grown and existence.

I watched this little guy eat fresh cherries
and it made me smile! So cute!

The market’s philosophy is simple: “if you couldn’t eat it, drink it, grow it or meet the producer, then you wouldn’t find it at the market” no more than 20% of a vendor’s items can be from other than the vendor’s own production. You could find fresh everything: free-range eggs, cherries, nuts, butters, breads and baked goods – some gluten-free, seedlings, herbs and spices, olive oil, wines, spirits, jams, mustards, hand blended teas, roasted coffee, pink eye potatoes (they seem to be special here), berries of all kinds, oysters, truffles, flowers and much more. It is smaller than the Salamana Market, but better food items and not many crafts. 

I just love fresh carrots!

After shopping for some fresh fruits and carrots for car snacks, we enjoyed breakfast and some people watching before heading out to see the famous MONA Museum. I loved watching a little blonde boy eat fresh cherries. There was more on his face than in his tummy. He reminded me of our grandson Alex.

Off to MONA. This is the Museum of Old and New Art. And it is a private collection. So I was thinking: some old house along the river with a bunch of antiques and some modern art. Everyone said we must go there, so we did.

The grounds of MONA

Well … was I surprised! Just outside of town, this museum occupies a peninsula on the Derwent River. It is owned by philanthropist David Walsh and is one of the most beautiful and interesting museum buildings I have ever seen. Thinking we would be in and out in less than two hours and on our way, I was stunned by what unfolded before my eyes!

This is a modern art exhibit: the car was smashed
in front and back like being shoved into the cement!

I was curious about David Walsh, thinking he was a wealthy winemaker. He is that, but much more. He is an Australian professional gambler who privately owns a substantial collection of  art, antiquities and a winery. Walsh made his fortune by developing a gambling system used to bet on horse racing and other sports. In 2001, he founded the Moorilla Museum of Antiquities on the Berriedale peninsula in Hobart, which closed in 2007 to undergo $75 Million renovations.



Some of the art installations were huge. Others, ancient.

It was re-opened in January 2011 as the Museum of Old and New Art or MONA. MONA won the 2012 Australian Tourism Award for best new development and is a major Tasmanian tourist attraction. And now he is trying to add a casino only for non-Australians to attract high-roller art lovers from around the world. He must know his audience! Of course, he is battling with the authorities over this. Mr. Walsh is obviously a controversial individual.



The grounds and buildings are new and contemporary. There is a restaurant and a tasting cellar for wine lovers. The vineyards surround the museum. As you enter, there is a simple lobby and ticket counter where the seller advises you to take the stairs or elevator to the bottom floor and work your way up! Okay, let’s find the elevator.

 

Very strange subject matter. Interesting media.

In the center of the next room, there was a large circular staircase going down. Since the elevator is in the middle of it and it was at the bottom, we decided to walk down – and down and down and … At one point you cross over a bridge into the bottom level and WOW! Walsh describes the place as “a subversive adult Disneyland.”  Lonely Planet says: “Ancient antiquities are showcased next to contemporary works: sexy, provocative, disturbing and deeply engaging.” It was all that and more!






Mission Accomplished!

The architecture of the building is an exhibit in itself. The whole museum is underground, three levels down. It abuts a sheer rock face which creates the interior wall on one side. Three subterranean levels have been cut into the Triassic sandstone river bank. Absolutely stunning! It took my breath away. Not bad for a $75 million AUD private museum. The MONA covers 61,354 square feet of galleries and opened in January 2011. Well worth a visit! No, it is a MUST SEE!

Strange subject matter!

There is a three story rock wall in front of which a waterfall is programed to spill water in the form of words. I tried to capture it as a photo, but it was difficult. I did get a video, but have not yet figured out how to put it in this blog. I will try again, but you may see a void here – again. Check below.

The museum is exhibiting a most interesting and disturbing show of the artworks by Gilbert & George. We didn’t know who they are and had trouble understanding their work. Some of it was utterly disgusting; other pieces were disturbing yet thought-provoking. I am still shaking my head over some. It was a huge exhibit and the pieces themselves are huge, covering a full wall.

I guess I am out of sync with the modern art world as I looked them up and see that they are very well known artists in several media.

They are two artists who work together as a collaborative duo called Gilbert & George. They are known for their distinctive and highly formal appearance and manner and also for their brightly colored graphic-style photo-based artworks.

They have lived in East London for years after having met in school and working together as actors and artists. It is also unusual for one of the pair to be seen without the other. The pair regard themselves as "living sculptures". They refuse to disassociate their art from their everyday lives, insisting that everything they do is art. This explains some of their most weird works. I won’t disturb you with the details, but I found most of it disgusting! Enough!

It was time to hit the road and head north along the east coast of Tasmania. We had a Bed & Breakfast reservation in Richmond. We would need to get there in time to find a place to eat on a Sunday night. Small towns don’t have a lot of options.

Where in the Devil Is Tasmania!

Arriving in Hobart, Tasmania. What a backdrop of the city!
Those are low clouds - not snow!

As kids we learned about the Tasmanian Devil through cartoons. No one actually talked about the real animal or where Tasmania is located on this big blue ball! In fact, for years I thought Tasmania was a country and not just a part of Australia that broke away from the mainland thousands of years ago.
  

Tasmania was one of the destinations we wanted to visit while down under. If we were to sail down there, we would have to spend another year here in Australia since it would be too tight of a schedule to explore Tassie (as the Aussies call it) by sea and see the rest of Australia in one season. And I do want to get back to land to spend time with rapidly growing grandchildren, so another season here is not an option.

The fishing fleet: prawns, mussels, oysters and every
species of fish imaginable found in the fish market.

Knowing we could not see all of Tasmania, we chose a trip along the east coast from Hobart to Launceston. This itinerary gave us the opportunity to see the two major cities and beautiful beaches, landscapes, mountains and national parks all in a seven day fly/drive package. It was the perfect length of time and amount of driving. I am sure the west coast drive is just as beautiful.

A view of the waterfront from across Constitution Harbour.

The roads here are similar to New Zealand – very narrow, no shoulders, few divided highways, but we did not find any one lane bridges here! That made it a little easier. Although Dennis commented several times that the Aussie drivers are more aggressive. Dennis is quite efficient as a “British” driver. In fact, he is concerned now about driving in the USA and then coming back to drive more here. One cannot let the personal automatic pilot kick in while driving. He remains focused on the road so he misses a lot of what I get to see and photograph along the way.



Everyone warned us that it would be cold in Tassie so we should take our woolies. Leaving 90-105+ temperatures here on the mainland had us concerned when it came to packing. Of course, I packed too much just to be prepared! Jeans were the most used item along with a long sleeved shirt and a sweater or fleece. Actually, the cool weather of 60-75 degrees was refreshing. I was more comfortable down there as I don’t like hot weather. It was snowing up in the mountains further inland at Mt. Wellington.

Fairy Floss: the Aussie version of Cotton Candy

Like New Zealand, Tasmania and all of Australia is known for trekking trails. The population is very outdoorsy and most activities involve trekking, surfing, sailing, fishing, beaches, camping, etc. And Tassie has a number of state and national parks with free campsites. Plus you can camp almost anywhere you want to as long as it is not mark as off limits. There is a lot of land and a small population.



So many flower stalls! All beautiful!

And, of course, there are the wine trails and tours. We didn’t take advantage of all of the tasting cellars along the way as we didn’t want the hassle of bringing it back to the mainland. Besides there are so many choices in the stores that you don’t need to go to the vineyards. I do find it amazing how much wine other boats buy for stock onboard. I guess we just don’t drink that much. And that is a good thing!



Beautiful hand knit and felted hats and scarves knit from
silk, merino wool, alpaca or a combination. Fine work.

We tried to visit a number of the “Essential Tasmanian Experiences” as recommended in guide books. Our first two days were in Hobart near the Tasmanian Peninsula in the southeast corner of Tasmania. There were historical sites everywhere and most of them highlighted the convict history and the terrible things that happened. Since it was similar in a number of locations, we did not visit many as it is not our history and it is quite depressing. It just underlines the fact that people of all skin colors, ethnicity, religions, etc. have been treated badly in every part of the world at some time or another. Everyone seems to have some of this ugly history.

And, of course, I am attracted to the fiber arts everywhere.
These garments have a lovely hand.

Hobart is Australia’s second oldest city and is a bustling seaport town and harbor. And it has a sprawling suburbia around it. People are actively out walking, jogging and biking throughout the downtown area. It is quite hilly so you get a good workout! In the heart of town is Constitution Dock which is surrounded by great seafood restaurants. Of course, this was where we ate our meals! Fresh seafood is wonderful here.



I can see I need to work on my knot skills!

Every Saturday there is the Salamanca Market - an outdoor market. It is like Eastern Market and the Ann Arbor Art Fair in one all outdoors. It is hard to believe so many vendors set up shop there every week! In this vibrant market, you could find anything you might need there: plants, honey, meats, wine cheese, breads, fruits and vegetables, clothing, jewelry, leather and woven goods, toys, handmade items of all kinds, photography, all kinds of artwork and more! It was huge!

 

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Even though the day was a little overcast with an occasional mist, it was a lovely way to spend a few hours.  It was also a dog and smoke free area which made it more pleasant – only the strollers to trip you. The market is run by the city and the vendors are all licensed. I love that they call cotton candy “fairy floss” here!

We made a couple of museum stops: Maritime Museum of Tasmania and the Tasmanian Museum and Art Gallery (free admission). The Maritime Museum is run by volunteers and holds Tasmania’s largest and most eclectic maritime collection. Exhibits highlighted whaling, ship building, shipwrecks and Hobart’s connection with the sea.

 
 

After lunch we went to the Tasmanian Museum and Art Gallery. I have to admit that I wasn’t terribly enthused as I was tired, but I am so glad I went along with Dennis. The most moving exhibit was about their Aboriginal people who are believed to have arrived in the continent of Australia between 60,000-35,000 BC! Now that is what you can call “original indigenous people.” Then Tasmania separated from the mainland when the sea level rose following the last ice age sometime between 12,000-8,000 BC.

I can't imagine going out in the ocean for seals and whales
in this type of boat with the wind and waves down here!

In 1642, Dutch explorer Abel Tasman discovered Tasmania and named the island Van Diemen’s Land after a Dutch governor. He was followed by visiting Captain Bligh, who planted the first apple trees in the 1700’s and the Huon Valley is still the apple capital of Tasmania. Convicts began arriving in 1788 and have a history of terrible treatment. Today relatives of those convicts consider their families’ survival as a badge of honor. Other than the Aboriginal People, everyone came from somewhere else.

A typical Aboriginal house. Since they were  either murdered,
sold or shipped off to the outer islands and west side of the
country, we won't see these in a village.

As for the Aboriginal People, they lived off the land and sea for years along the coasts. They produced sophisticated boats and used them to hunt seals and offshore animals and birds. There were 5,000-10,000 Aboriginals in Tasmania when the Europeans arrived. They lived in bands of about 50 people, each claiming certain areas of land and speaking one of nine native languages.

An interesting T-shirt commentary!
Everything is a matter of perspective,
but there is no excuse for human torture.



Here it is: The Tasmanian Devil

The ugly history began when the European sealers took the women for laborers and sex slaves, even trading dogs and other things so they could take the women back with them! As the Europeans expanded their farms into the hunting grounds, wars broke out between the two groups. This eroded into the Black Wars in the 1820’s. Unfortunately, Aboriginal groups were systematically murdered, arrested or forced from certain land areas. They were poisoned by arsenic on bread, trapped in steel traps or died from European diseases. There was an attempt to rid the country of Aboriginal people.

This exhibit shows Antarctica in relation to
the other continents and explains weather.

In the museum we saw a preserved Tasmanian Devil in a glass case. Other than road kill and a trip to a wildlife reserve, we haven’t seen any animals in the wild yet, other than birds. Most of them are nocturnal and we haven’t ventured out into the bush at night yet.



St. Dsvid's Anglican Catherdral

This museum is an interesting mixture of art and science exhibits as well as historical ones. The building itself is historical and they have excavated and exposed many of the walls which show different materials and building technics used over the years. Very interesting.

We found St. David's Anglican Cathedral in the heart of Hobart. Up on a hill which must be challenging to navigate in the winter, we entered to find a very serene sanctuary which is open to the public every day. I found it interesting as the literature says it is a "Persian/English Congregation."
 

And all of this was just on Saturday. We still have Sunday to explore the area.