Time for a Change of Scenery: Grande Terre

 
 

Sometimes he makes me nervous! I wonder if I could
actually get him back on the boat if he fell off?

 

After a relaxing time in the Loyalty Islands, especially Atol d’Ouvea, we all decided it was time to explore the eastern coast of Grande Terre. We had been advised that this probably would not be a pleasant way to go south due to the southeasterly winds, swells and current up the side of the main island.

However, the consensus was that the winds had shifted to the east and north east and it was a perfect time to head across to Passe De Toupeti and enter the barrier reef. We were sailing with S/V Chez Nous and S/Y Darramy again.

We would then day hop down inside the reef, exploring as we went. This turned out to be the right decision as the wind was supportive of our plan. It is so nice when Mother Nature agrees with us! It was a most enjoyable crossing over to the mainland and through the barrier reef pass.

This is quite a change from the Loyalty Islands.
Where's the beach!

We found a lovely anchorage at Ile Nemou (21⁰ 40.442’S, 166⁰ 22.937’E). Obviously from the photo at the left, you can see that the terrain here is very different from the Loyalty Islands. We are on the east side of Grande Terre; in other words, on the windward side.

The earth on the mainland here is a rusty red and is mined for nickel. Unfortunately, it sticks to our shoes and makes a mess of the dinghy if we don't wash them off first. For now, it is okay because we are staying on a small islet with white sandy beaches.

The view of the landing from the boat.

This is a nature reserve area so you cannot fish or disturb anything, but you can go ashore to the beach. At first we thought it was someone’s private property. Eventually, we all decided to venture ashore to check it out as we had not seen any activity around the buildings or area. Once on shore, we read the signage about the reserve – in French, of course, but I could make out the meaning of most of it.

It was fine for us to be there. However, the surroundings looked like something else goes on here. I am not sure what it all means or if it is just a hoax to keep people away!

At first, we thought it was private and stayed off.

 

It looked like a place where black magic is alive and well. We were not sure about the “décor” of the area. The photos will tell the story and your imagination is free to enhance! We couldn’t figure it out.

Then we saw the sign!

 

 

 



A view of the beach. Since this is a ilot, there is no red dirt.

It is a lovely little sanctuary where everything is protected. However, I am not sure what goes on with the bonfire and the creatures hanging around it!

The swimming may have been fine here, but the temperature is a little too chilly. Spring is just beginning so the air has a little nip even though the sun is very warm. I stuck with wading in the water. Of course, shell collection is a no-no in a marine reserve.

A dinghy ride to Rocher Boise around the corner yielded itself to another adventure. It is a tiny island - the kind you want to see on the chart before you meet it in the dark!

We scoured the rocky and coral and shell covered land area for interesting specimen. Dennis found two dead starfish (although, I have been told that they are not fish and should be called sea stars) on the shore. They were well bleached and rigor mortise had set in so they were surely beyond saving.



After two nights here, we headed down the coast to find another interesting anchorage. We did not have any problems with the current or wind. In fact, the wind was so light that we motored and charged our batteries all the way to the next stop.
 

We took a pass on Baie de Kouakoue and continued on to Baie de Quinne. We were hoping to find a village and a store –for bread and more! At this point anything will do!

The beach (?) at Rocher Boise

It turned out to be a mining village and no activity. Of course, we arrived on a Saturday so it was probably closed for the weekend. That was probably a good thing since there is a huge buoy for the ore ships to come into collect their cargo. Their presence would not have been pleasant at all. Although a peaceful anchorage, it was not one worth spending another night. Other than the view of the mountains painted with red soil and green trees, it was a boring place.



Rocher Boise is not a place to stay.

Our friends on S/Y Celine from Gulf Harbour in New Zealand,  brought over some freshly caught tuna. Yachties frequently share fish since the critters are so big and yield a lot of flesh. If one has room in the freezer, some is frozen. Since it is so good fresh, it is nice to share.
 

At daylight, we all weighed anchor to move south again. The group plan was to go into Baie De Yate as there appears to be a village there. Although, the anchorage itself does not look keep enough for our comfort. It will be fine for the catamaran, but the monohulls need more water.

Rocher Boise looks better from afar! 

S/Y Darramy and S/V Chez Nous

Since we motor faster, we were in the lead. The wind was light and on the nose so motoring allowed us to charge the batteries at the same time. We pulled into Baie d’ Yates to check it out.

We did see the village, but there was a big swell and not much room on the leeward side so we did not want to leave the boat to go ashore. Our track shows we made a U-turn and came right back out pushing against the tide and trying to stay between the red and green markers at the edge of the narrow winding channel. Not a place for S/V Trillium!

Looking at the eastern shore of Grande Terre.

Having let the other two boats know we were moving on, we continued south to Cap Coronation and Baie de Tare. What a lovely find! It was tricky going in – another narrow and winding channel between huge reefs – but well worth it!

Most of the upper bay is uncharted so we stopped at the most interior anchorage suggested in the guide. This was a very comfortable location as the winds clocked around for a couple of days. We hardly felt the wind or the tidal flow. This was worth a couple of sleep-filled nights. Something one is always looking to have. We seem to wake up between 0530 -0630 every day and we tend to stay up relatively late. So a couple of good snoozes are wonderful!

This is the sport of fishing underway. A balancing act!

Time to move again. This time we are heading down to the southern end of Grand Terre to De Goro Port. Although not protected by any land on the east and south sides, we are inside a reef. In fact, we are several miles inside a reef that is marked by a lighthouse at the entrance. Again a narrow path between the reefs, but very comfortable once we got well in to the furthest anchorage.

A tricky passage between reefs to a good anchorage.  
You must stay right on the waypoints or be sorry!

There appears to be a village there, so Dennis took the dinghy ashore to check it out. In search of bread, of course! I think he is tired of rice cakes and crackers, tortilla wraps and wheat crackers. Toast with his eggs are probably the motivator. And he is now a fan of Vegemite! Some of you know what this is. It stinks! I think it is one of those “either you like it or you don’t” foods with no in between.

Unfortunately, there is no store there. He managed to communicate that he was looking for one and how could he get to one. But the answer was: Il n’y en a pas. And then the hand signal that it is a long way from here appeared again! No bread – again. So the search goes on… I think I am going to have to give in and learn to make bread.

It is a beautiful contrast of red and green everywhere you look.

There was a beautiful full rainbow. I couldn't get it all in one shot because it was so close! We have seen this a number of times. It happens on the water where no land hides one end or the other.

S/V Trillium

After we all took a dinghy ride to see the river and waterfall, we beached the dinghies and walked up someone’s driveway and across the road to take photos. It was a lovely waterfall and vantage point. 

Not the biggest we have seen, but lovely.

Another couple joined us and Brian began a conversation in French with them. Back out on the road, we continued the conversation with the man with whom they were traveling. He was delightful and had a long French conversation with Brian regarding the lack of stores anywhere near here. In fact, he told us we wouldn’t be finding any stores at the next few stops and it would be surprising if we find much in Ile des Pins! Of course, that is where we are heading and we all want some fresh fruits and vegetable – and bread!

Dennis was picking up trash at the waterfall.

 

  
 

No stores! Oui, Madame!

 

Our passage inside the barrier reef was pleasant.

 

Can't Get Enough of this Beautiful Place!

I have found heaven on earth!

I don't think I ever want to leave here! Atoll d'Ouvea is so beautiful and peaceful. I don't think I would get bored for a long time even though there is nothing to do but soak it all in. Walks on the beach are the best.

I can't walk without searching for seashells, always looking for a special one! I do collect them, but I doubt if I can make it through Australia and the USA with them in hand. We will see.

The burial caves are below the trees in the center of the
photo across the lagoon.

Dennis and I enjoyed several long beach walks. Our anchorage is located in an area where you cross the road behind the resort and you are at another lagoon. This one is Baie de Lekiny and it is off limits! There is a serious current flowing in and out under the bridge, but more importantly, the sacred burial grounds are located on the eastern shore. There is a guided tour available around this bay, but we did not take it.

Apparently when someone dies, they are placed in their canoe and sent into the numerous caves located across the lagoon. Many native rituals require that visitors not tread on sacred grounds. We respect that custom. 

Our view from the bridge of the boys' camera set up.
Then we walked past it and around the point.

On our walk, we came upon a woman who was screaming and rolling around on the road just before the one lane bridge. At the time, we did not know what was happening. Later, after finding out about the burial grounds, we believe she had lost someone close to her and she was mourning. Other than one woman with her, everyone else left her alone, but protected her from approaching vehicles. We then assumed this is a wailing wall of sorts. Actually, it is a view across the lagoon to the caves.

A picture is worth a thousand words ...

At the bridge, we came upon three young men having fun! They had a video camera set up on the beach and they were filming themselves jumping off the bridge. This is the same bridge where they warn about the strong current! Boys will be boys!

We walked along the Baie de Lekiny lagoon one way and back along the Muli beach. The sand is like superfine sugar - so soft. I am not even sure it would make a good drizzle sand castle. It doesn't hold together.

I just can't get enough of this beautiful sand and cerulean blue water. It truly is indescribable. You have to see it to really know what I mean. It literally overwhelms me at times with the beauty. This is my most favorite place in the world. Unfortunately, I think Dennis will get bored with it too soon. Then it will be time to move on.

Catch of the day - for me!

In the meantime, I will just keep walking the beach and collecting seashells. And dreaming of jewelry I could make with them!

OMG! It Takes My Breath Away!



Love at first sight!

We just completed a day sail of about 60 nm from Lifou to Atoll D'Ouvea, just a little northwest. Approaching the island looks like the approach to every other island: hills or mountains covered with trees, surf breaking on the reefs and few beaches. Usually, we are approaching from the east so we are on the windward side of the island. The windward side is also usually wetter and has more vegetation as the rain falls when it approaches the island. Since the waves slap against that side as well, there is more erosion, rocky areas and places not to meet unexpectedly – like rocks awash. The windward side tends not to have nice beaches and that is also where you find a lot of trash washed ashore.

 

 

The most beautiful beach in the world! So far...

Once we entered the passage into the leeward side of the island – the west side, we saw the most beautiful long white sandy beach and the stunning cerulean blue water. It was even more beautiful than Lifou!

This island is actually an atoll with a huge lagoon. In fact, it is so big that changes in the wind necessitate relocating one’s anchorage from time to time. That is not a problem because there are miles of beach and numerous places to anchor. All beautiful!

We chose to anchor at the northern end of Ile Muli, but still south of the resort Paradis d’ Ouvea so the beach was empty. The location was 20⁰ 42.470 S / 166⁰ 26.673 E near Cap Kekine. We have been sailing with S/V Chez Nous and S/Y Darramy, both had been working with Sea Mercy in Vanuatu.

I have never seen so many different kinds of sea shells.

Donna and Jonathan live on S/V Chez Nous, a catamaran, and are from Florida, although he is a Brit. Sue and Brian, also Brits, are on a monohull and have been cruising for 11 years! It is fun to hear the stories of those who have been out a while. S/V Chez Nous was in the World ARC with us and dropped out when we did. They are planning another year – or more – in the South Pacific before heading west. Who knows where S/Y Darramy is going and when after they land on the shores of Australia!

I think I have found paradise right here in the Loyalties. Atol d’ Ouvea is now my favorite stop! It will take a mighty special place to top it. I will have to see what the islands in the Indian Ocean bring to view, but it will be a challenge to beat this one. I couldn’t wait to get on the beach to wiggle my toes in the water and sand and walk. This is what I enjoy most for exercise.



Note the little burrow in the sand ...

We spent several days at this anchorage and walked the beach, collecting shells as we went. We enjoyed a game of boule (or is it bowl – I can’t be sure with the British accent) with the other two boats. It is like bocce ball, but it doesn’t roll in the sand so you have to toss it. The metal balls are quite heavy, too. It became a real competition between boat teams! Then we rented bicycles to ride to the nearest town to seek bread! Donna joined Dennis and me. I hadn’t ridden a bike in years – it does come back to you, thankfully.



It is a hermit crab pretending we can't see him!

After about three kilometers, we asked – at least, we tried to ask – a local where for directions to a store: marche, magazine, casino? All we got was a wave of an arm suggesting that we keep going that way – the way we were headed.

After another two kilometers, we asked another person. The answer was the same: a wave of the arm in the direction we were heading! After another kilometer or so, Donna and I decided we needed to turn back or our legs would not get us back if we continued on. Dennis was determined to find a store so he kept going!



Does anyone know where the store is? Or speak French?

Donna and I eventually made it back to the resort to turn in our bikes. The thigh-burn and rubber legs let us know we had made the right decision. We now required some painkillers – rum and coke for her and a Margarita for me! Since Dennis had the keys to the dinghy and boat, what else could we do? Girls gotta do what girls gotta do!

Dennis finally returned just before the sun was lowering in the sky. He had gone another six or seven kilometers and did not find bread. He found some chocolate filled rolls, though! Leave it to him to hone in on chocolate.


You just never know what you might see when you
go off exploring in these lovely islands.

And he found a ride back in a truck! So we all pedaled about the same distance. As we boarded the dinghy, Donna was still in agony. My neck hurt from looking ahead from the position the handlebars created. Dennis was fine – just a little weak in the legs. I guess we need to ride more often. Later when I called Donna on the VHF, Jonathan said she was in traction! Very funny! She was in pain.

 

How do you spell R-E-L-I-E-F?

When we stopped at S/V Chex Nous, the sun was starting to set and it looked like it may be a green flash. We all climbed up on the top of the catamaran’s roof deck to watch. Fabulous! It was like a double green flash! There was a bar of green just above the sun and then one at the water. I had never seen one like this before. Of course, you cannot capture the exact moment on film – darn! Let’s see, is that number 19 or 20? Or is it number 20 and 21?

Measurement had to be exact in this hot contest!

This beautiful place provided a much needed “vacation” from all the work we had done for two months in Vanuatu. It seems during that time that we never stopped to rest. This is our reward: Ouvea!

 

Note to my French speaking friends: I don’t know how to put the accents on the words with the computer. If you know, please email or message me on Facebook.

Exploring Lifou, Loyalty Islands, New Caledonia

I am completely overwhelmed visually! The color of the water here in the Loyalty Islands of New Caledonia is the most beautiful cerulean blue I have ever seen in nature. Words and photographs can not begin to describe it. I have used my water color cerulean blue when painting, but that doesn't even come close to the real thing. I am in awe!

 

If only you could see the real thing!

 

 The photo above is a shot taken straight down from the side of the boat. I think you can even see my shadow on the bottom on the white sand. That is about 30 feet below the surface! That is how clear it is here. I think the Loyalties have just moved to the top of my list of favorite places we have  been. It used to be the Tuamotu Archipelago in French Polynesia. Interesting: my two favorite places are French!

And look at that white sand beach. We have truly found the picture perfect South Pacific islands! Many times we have been somewhat disappointed in the beaches or lack of them. Many of the islands are just mountains of volcanic rock so they really don't look like the tourist information brochures! And the black volcanic sand is not that appealing to me.
 

I would come back here in a heartbeat! There is not much to do here. There are not many villages or resorts that we can see from here, but this is a very large island. The nearest town to our anchorage is a bus ride across the narrow part of the island. That is where we went shopping for provisions and phone SIM cards.

We walked through the village here at Baie Du Santal looking for the store that sold baguettes. It seems we are always in search of fresh bread. And it doesn't get any better than baguettes in the French islands throughout the world!

The streets are narrow but paved. There is no signage so we just followed the road as directed and made the first left turn up ahead. Passing along this road, we saw some traditional round houses with the tall peaked roof. In this blog last year, I posted a number of photos of the Kanak houses and discussed their culture.

At the far end of the street stood a little shack - that was the store. At first we were not sure since there was no signage. Once we peeked in, we knew we had arrived! There were loaves of baguettes stacked on a shelf. Finally - bread!

We bought our baguettes and of course, carried them in hand as they do! No plastic bags! That makes it soft and tough. Although, I do like a long plastic baguette bag when transporting it in the dinghy to keep it dry.

Most people just walk holding their baguettes or have them sticking out of a backpack. After a while, you just don't work about dirty hands and germs!

We found a couple of places where the ladies where holding markets and bought a few items from them. One enterprising lady had fresh kumala and brioche for sale. And an artist had his carvings for sale. There were also preparing brochette for lunch if we came back. But we didn't. Once you get everything into the dinghy and get back to the boat, you just want to stay put for a while!

The capital of the territory is Noumea where we spent several weeks last year. They have a number of great museums, a cultural center with outstanding architecture and a botanical and zoological park. All worth a visit. We visited them last year and may repeat several this year. I also want to go to their aquarium as it is supposed to be a good one.

The following is some information from Wikipedia to give you a feel for New Caledonia:
 

"New Caledonia (French: Nouvelle-Calédonie)^{[nb 1]} is a special collectivity of France located in the southwest Pacific Ocean, 1,210 km (750 mi) east of Australia and 16,136 km (10,026 mi) east of Metropolitan France.^[4] The archipelago, part of the Melanesia subregion, includes the main island of Grande Terre, the Loyalty Islands, the Chesterfield Islands, the Belep archipelago, the Isle of Pines, and a few remote islets.^[5] The Chesterfield Islands are in the Coral Sea. Locals refer to Grande Terre as Le Caillou ("the pebble").^[6]
 
New Caledonia has a land area of 18,576 km² (7,172 sq mi). Its population of 268,767 (Aug. 2014 census)^[2] consists of a mix of Kanak people (the original inhabitants of New Caledonia), people of European descent (Caldoches and Metropolitan French), Polynesian people (mostly Wallisians), and Southeast Asian people, as well as a few people of Pied-Noir and Maghreban descent.


The Kanak society has several layers of customary authority, from the 4,000-5,000 family-based clans to the eight customary areas (aires coutumières) that make up the territory.^[23] Clans are led by clan chiefs and constitute 341 tribes, each headed by a tribal chief. The tribes are further grouped into 57 customary chiefdoms (chefferies), each headed by a head chief, and forming the administrative subdivisions of the customary areas.^[23]
 
The Customary Senate is the assembly of the various traditional councils of the Kanaks, and has jurisdiction over the law proposals concerning the Kanak identity.^[24]
Under the Noumea Accord, signed in 1998 following a period of secessionist unrest in the 1980s and approved in a referendum, New Caledonia is to hold a second referendum on independence between 2014 and 2018.^[27]
 
The official name of the territory, Nouvelle-Calédonie, could be changed in the near future due to the accord, which stated that "a name, a flag, an anthem, a motto, and the design of banknotes will have to be sought by all parties together, to express the Kanak identity and the future shared by all parties."^[28] To date, however, there has been no consensus on a new name for the territory.^[29] New Caledonia has increasingly adopted its own symbols, choosing an anthem, a motto, and a new design for its banknotes.^[30] In July 2010, New Caledonia adopted the Kanak flag, alongside the existing French tricolor, as dual official flags of the territory.^[31] The adoption made New Caledonia one of the few countries or territories in the world with two official national flags.^[31] The decision to use two flags has been a constant battleground between the two sides and led the coalition government to collapse in February 2011.^[27


Of course, the chocolate cake was a hit with us!

 

The kids just hung around the beach to check out these
white people who invaded on the yachts!

 

Can it get any better than this!

A New Country; A New Culture to Explore

We were nearly the last boat to arrive in Lifou.

Since leaving the USA in October 2013, we are about to clear into New Caledonia for the second time. This makes 24 Customs and Immigration clearance into 20 countries plus our around the world flight to Istanbul, Paris, Munich and USA. Even with that, there are so many places we haven’t been out here in the ocean.

Of course, that means much paperwork and many boat inspections. We have tried to visit different places in Tonga, Fiji, Vanuatu and New Caledonia where we have been before to have new experiences. And, of course, we continue to meet wonderful people who are out here doing the same thing as we are: enjoying the beauty of the world and its people.

The water here is the most beautiful cerulean blue I have
ever seen anywhere in the world! Indescribable!

Stopping in the Loyalty Islands of New Caledonia is a real treat. Usually one must sail all the way west to Noumea to clear in and then back against the wind to the Loyalities. As a result, most yachties don’t stop here. They are missing a special place!

I think we have found one of the most beautiful places in the South Pacific: cerulean blue and turquoise waters and snow white beaches. It is indescribable and the photos just cannot capture it. Sometimes my senses are on total overload from the beauty of the sights, sounds, smells, tastes and textures of the environment. It can be overwhelming and take your breath away. I have to pinch myself to see if I am really here!

 

John and Lyn Martin welcoming Dennis to the event.

The Rally’s gathering point was on Lifou, which is the largest and most populated island in the Loyalties. It was a good stopping place as the officials could fly here for the clearance procedure, then John flew to Noumea with all of our passports to complete the process while we soaked in the beauty of the place. This service alone is worth the rally fee!


We all anchored in Baie Du Santal (Sandal Bay 20⁰ 48S 167⁰ 08E) which is sheltered, but full of reefs and coral heads so navigation must be right on the way points. Then you must watch where you drop the anchor so you don’t wrap the chair around a coral head. We tend to anchor at the back of the fleet so if we slip, we don’t slide into another boat. Also, Dennis likes to put out a lot of chain which increases our swing. Many of the European boats anchor close to others. I guess they are used to crowded conditions. We like to have space around us.
 

Rally festival put on by the local village.

The village on shore was our Rally base and they presented us with a festive meal one evening. It was the traditional Bougna, which contains chicken, fish or lobster with vegetables of sweet potatoes (also called kamala), yams (they are not the same as sweet potatoes) unripe bananas and coconut milk. The mixture is wrapped in banana leaves and cooked over hot coals which have been placed in a hole in the ground. It was very tasty.



The hot Bougna was wrapped in this beautiful "carrying dish."

This is a typical island method of cooking and not too unlike the way we cooked in Girl Scout campouts, except we placed the food in a covered pot before putting it in the ground and covering it with earth to retain the heat. Then we would go off hiking for the day and come back to a cooked meal. It was wonderful then, too!

 

Not only do the women make the meal, but they also make
the woven serving dishes or whatever you would call them.

The ladies held a market for us so we could buy fresh fruits and vegetables from their gardens. They also had some baked goods which were a real treat! Fresh dark chocolate cake without frosting – my favorite!

There are several tiny little stores in the village where fresh baguettes were available each day. Yeah, bread – and good bread! When you are at sea, fresh bread becomes a real treat. Even if we buy several loaves before leaving shore, they are usually moldy before we use them up. That is when you know what preservatives do!

Now the unveiling begins!

The ICA Rally had arranged for a bus trip across the island to We for shopping and phone SIM cards. I think the locals thought the grocery store had been invaded by aliens when we all started grabbing for the limited produce selection. Then a huge line formed at the deli counter to get meats and cheeses. Of course, we bought baguettes, brie, pate and a few other French treats!

There were seven or eight different Bougna of different
ingredients and flavors: chicken, fish and vegetarian.

Once our groceries were in the bowels of the bus, Dennis and I went in search of the OPT phone store which is in the post office. Where? We were not sure so we kept walking in the direction we were told. We walked and we walked and we walked! After several inquiries, we managed to find the post office, but it had just closed. It was 3:30 PM. Of course! We are in the islands! No SIM card today. No Internet tonight!

Several small market areas were set up for us.

The senior village women.

So we walked back to the bus which was at least 3-4 kilometers away! That was our exercise for the day! Another boat arranged for the bus driver to come back the next day to take us to the post office. So I went with Donna of Chez Nous in search of SIM cards once again.

It seems that four people had been in line the day before and only one of them was processed for a SIM card! They had been there several hours! Well, there is only one person at the desk and it is a long process to complete the forms that can only be done by that one person on her computer. With 20-some of us wanting SIM cards, we came up with a plan!

She had the chocolate cake in her market!

 
 

Our groceries were the first in and last out of the bus.

Two people could communicate in French so they asked how many cards they could buy on one application. Five seemed to be the number! So only four people registered for cards and we were able to get enough cards for everyone in less than two hours. I am sure we set a record for group efficiency on this one. Sometimes you just have to think outside the box to get around the systems that seem ridiculous in the first place. Mission accomplished!

This is what a mass provisioning trip looks like as
everyone heads to their boats with dinghies full of goods!

Now for the next challenge: setting up the phones on our own with the instructions in French! It was a group effort again, but one by one, we managed to get everyone up and running. Then came the next problem: these were phone SIM cards, not data cards! Therefore, you need a smart phone with a hotspot to access the Internet. Those with iPads could not use them!

The joys of waiting and waiting and waiting for a SIM card!

Fortunately, we had purchased an unlocked Samsung Galaxy in New Zealand so we can swap out SIM cards in each country and use it as a hotspot! I have had to learn a lot about prepaid phone cards, etc. Now the challenge is finding 3G coverage areas. It seems that the older phones are sold to the less developed countries so they do not offer the latest service. You can tell when we have found the right place as everyone is on their devices!