Off to Las Perlas, the Pearl Islands

Getting ready for a crew change: Ron leaves from Panama,
Vicky and Peter leave from Las Perlas where Jack, Larry
and our son Nick will join us for the sail to Galapagos.

It was time to continue west! The leg from Panama City to the Archipelago de Las Perlas, consisting of more than 220 islands and islets, was not a “race” so we left when we felt like it. There was no wind for half of the trip. In fact, the Pacific was like glass near the harbor and for a couple of hours out. Then we picked up enough wind to unfurl the sails. We had a nice gentle sail with Vicky and Peter still on board. Ron had headed back home from Panama City. Las Perlas is about 45 miles southeast of Panama City, still in the Gulf of Panama.

Our view from the anchorage.

Our destination was the Island of Contadora, which was the island where they counted the pearls found here in the early days. Even though this is the most developed island in the group, there isn’t much there but it is one of the few inhabited islands in the group of islands. It is only 750 acres. That is smaller than Pointe aux Barques! The fleet that left earlier had time to visit several other islands before the rendezvous on the south side of the island near Hotel Romantica.

We needed to be there as we had crew scheduled for arrival on three different days. Of course, between the airlines and the Panamanian government, none of them showed up when expected. There was not much to do on the island so it was a time to relax some and read a good book. Actually the down time felt good.

Nick, Jack and Larry finally joined us for the trip to the Galapagos. Vicky and Peter took the ferry back to the mainland to meet their daughters for more exploring in Panama. The current was very strong so we did not swim off the boat. The crew that did swim at several beaches had a run in with jellyfish and had a number of stings.

There are a couple of hotels on Contadora and it could be a very peaceful place to visit for a vacation if you are into sun and sand. Personally, I would take the beaches of Saint Bart or Hawaii over this one. Our big purchase was fishing lures to see if we could improve our luck.

What you see is what you get! Not much here!

Since I have been interested in human behavior through my 23 years of coaching and training, I have found the people watching very interesting when it comes to food and drink! Obviously, there are those who have no limits on libation so they are in a state of non-existence when at anchor or on shore. I guess my “drug” of choice is Coca Cola – pretty benign compared to the flow of beer and rum. So it leads to good people watching!

Dennis at the Prize Giving Event. None for us!

There are a few who can’t seem to control their consumption of food. This has become a frustration because they go through the buffet lines multiple times – even eating while standing over the buffet – before everyone has made it though once.  The caterers usually run out of food and some of us don’t even get our meal. Visually, you can identify the ones who are the indulgent! Maybe that is why we are losing weight! I find it annoying that they are so out of touch with their own behavior and don’t realize others are missing out on what they have paid for in their Rally fees.

Another Interesting Shopping Experience

An unbelievable amount of citrus fruits here!

It is so good to see fresh things!

I am getting pretty good at working my way through the various outdoor food markets. I have become accustomed to the numerous root vegetables, but I have not tried to cook any yet. Since it is so hard to find fresh fruits and vegetables, I really stock up when I do. In fact, I usually over buy and then force feed the crew! Hey, what's wrong with fresh bananas, grapefruits and oranges every day! I peel and section the citrus fruits so they are at hand and an easy to grab snack.

The locals call these "pumpkin" but they look
like varieties of what we call "squash."

In Panama City, Vicky and I went to the local farmers/wholesale market. It was somewhat like Eastern Market in Detroit, but not as clean. The one we visited had permanent stalls as well as some under a common roof.

It was organized by the type of foods so it was easy to compare between vendors. Our biggest challenge was the language. Fortunately, we found a taxi driver who would stay with us and translate. He also carried everything to the car and unloaded it at the dock. Mario was a blessing on such a hot day in the dusty market.

It was difficult asking for the cost of an item without
speaking Spanish. I had to depend on Mario.

One of the things that I have found I can finally accept is the idea of not refrigerating eggs that have never been refrigerated! Yes, that is right. If I buy them in a store, then I have to keep them cool. I also have to take my own egg cartons with me since eggs don't travel well in a bag!

It is a busy place on Saturday.

As for bags, you cannot count on the vendor having them available. So I head of to market with a boat bag full of other bags. The best bags I have are REI shopping bags. Check them out near the checkout counter in the store.

I found such good bargains there. A whole sack -as in 25 pounds - of oranges was $5 and a sack of grapefruit was only $4! Now think of what you are paying in the market at home! These look like produce that would be used for processing and not in your store. There is nothing wrong with them; they just aren't pretty like the ones we like to pick out individually. The taste is wonderful and they are very juicy.

Wow! Fresh parsley and romaine. It is hard to find fresh
greens. I miss my cello packed romaine that lasts!

Then there are the bananas. For $5, I could have purchased a whole stalk! However, I did not have room for that many, nor could we eat that many before they would spoil. I managed to negotiate for a half stalk for $2.50. (Sign language is working better than my Spanish!) We have had bananas for four weeks as a result. They are very green so I select the most ripe ones and put them in a plastic bag with an apple to speed up the ripening process. This way I can have a continuous stream of perfectly ripened bananas.

Truly Mother Nature's palette of colors!

Pineapples were $1 each as were the better avocados. I tried the cheaper avocados but found them not lasting as long. Tomatoes were $0.40 a pound.

It is hard to find lemons as we know them. The ones here are somewhat orange in color inside. The limes are yellow on the outside. They had green ones like we have at home, but the vendor was insistent that I wouldn't like them because they were not yet ripe. So I bought the yellow ones and he was right! They are sweeter yet still tart. You learn something new everyday.

Back on the boat, everything was soaked in
saltwater over the side of the boat and then
given a fresh water rinse and dried before
storing. Just need to keep bugs off the boat!

I ended up with a trunk full of fresh fruits and vegetables for a grand total of $35 plus $20 round trip taxi ride. This is probably the last time we will see this kind of selection and at such low prices. The provisioning on the Galapagos Islands will be limited and expensive. And everything is cash only. We were advised that the prices in the Marquesas will be outrageous. Feeding the crew will be challenging in both budget and finding meats and produce we like.

I am sure my shopping and cooking will become even more comical as we continue westward into the more remote islands. I understand that some of them have no official currency so we will be trading goods. I hope I have brought along the right things to trade!

So far I haven't had any complaints from the crew so I will keep being creative with what I have available on any given day!

A Visit to the Embera Indians

Arriving at the river to board the dugouts

The World Cruising Club does a nice job of arranging activities in our various landings. Once again they made it possible for us to spend a day with the Embera Indians near Panama City. Tours are available through many sources, but the WARC makes it easier by making all of the arrangements. As a result, we have a carefree day of enjoying another culture.

He stood in the bow of the canoe for
the whole trip up the river.

After a 45 minute bus trip to the edge of the river, we were greeted by the men of the tribe. Our guide suggested we use the facilities there before boarding the canoes. One enterprising woman (gotta love those women business owners!) had a "pay toilet" on her property near the bus parking area. She charged $0.25 per person to use it. We Americans understood the program and offered our coins. Some of the Europeans just went right in and out without paying. It was interesting to watch her reaction and lack of gumption to go after them.

Here we go 

The Chief shared information about their culture.

 As we approached the river, we saw the men in their native attire - which was minimal - offering us life jackets and directing us toward the dugout canoes. Once we were all tucked in several canoes we looked like those old fashion orange marshmallow peanut candies that my grandmother always had available! The canoes were somewhat comfortable as we sat two on a seat. We quickly learned it is better to be in the back if you want to stay dry.

Masks made with basketry techniques.

Wooden carvings from a single piece of wood

One of the older men ran the outboard motor while a younger one stood in the bow holding a long stick. He used it to push off and for balance. At times it seemed like he was giving directions to the driver by tilting the stick one way or the other. We were in the canoes for another 30 minutes or so as we followed a path through the water plants up the river to their village. The passage was very peaceful with many birds and interesting vegetation to enjoy. I can't imagine making this journey without an outboard motor as it would take days to paddle. There were no roads along the river to this wilderness village as it is very isolated.

Once we arrived at the village, we were greeted by children on the beach and musicians playing part way up the stairs. This is a community where dress is skimpy, but not in a sexy way. The women only cover up with skirts from the waist down and the men were something like a diaper. They use a plant material to paint or stain their skin creating interesting designs as you will see in the photos. At first it was a bit awkward looking at their dress (or rather the lack of), but after a while you don't even notice the bareness. In fact, they looked really comfortable and cool in the warm sun! There have been many days when I have envied the crew who go bare chested!

Some of their jewelry designs.

The Chief explained about their culture, arts, dance and food. Our guide David translated it for us. We were encouraged to buy their handmade items as this is their source of income. Each family retains the money from their sales while the village as a whole benefits from the tour income. They make baskets, masks, carved wooden objects and jewelry. They also created designs for their skirt fabrics that are then printed in mass in the city. It is a long piece of fabric that you wrap around your waist and tuck in. Hopefully it stays up!

All of the women join in the singing and dancing
while the men watch. Then they drew in the guests.

The women create the music with handmade instruments and sing and play while doing the traditional dance. They line up by age with the eldest leading and circle around and around. The little ones were so cute! Some of them already have the moves going! Then the children came to the visitors and asked them to join in the dance so we did. How could you say "no" to those darling faces!

The last little girl really had all of the dance moves down!

Following the program, they served us a meal of fresh tilapia cooked over the open fire in a vat of oil, fried plantain patties and fruit. The food was served in a banana leaf bowl. I wish I could have saved mine. We were able to see the "kitchen" which was a raised thatched hut where the plantains were being fried and the fruit prepared. The fish was being prepared below on the ground. The kitchen is the community kitchen for events. Each home has its own kitchen. The preparation of the food was hard work and very hot as well.

Fresh tilapia with fried plantain cakes.

 After lunch we were free to roam around their village, but not to enter their homes. The houses are thatched huts up on stilts to protect them from the jungle animals and the water during rainy seasons. We noted the "stairs" to the hut were made out of logs with steps notched into them. To keep people out (like closing the door) - or keeping children in - they turned the log around so the steps were not accessible! Very clever!

Serving a large crowd on disposable plates!

 We were allowed to visit their herbal or healing garden where they grow the plants used for medications. Even the dye that is used on their bodies has the effect of our bug repellent. Many of the plants have multiple uses depending on whether you are using the stem, leave, root or flower or make it into something, like a tea.

Some 50 years ago, the government had displaced these people from the land they had occupied for generations. They created 5-7 communities throughout the jungle south of the Panama Canal for them to create new communities. There were around 140 people in this one.

Frying the tilapia in oil over an wood fire was hot work.

The raised community kitchen

Preparing the fruit trays

Cooking the fried plantains

Piles of plantain cakes or patties.

 We learned that they usually have 5-6 days a month when the tours are welcome in the village. Again this is a major source of income for them. There tour season is from December through April and then the water in the river becomes so low the canoes with motors cannot travel the paths. This is when they plant rice and corn along the river bed. They were very happy the week we were there because they were having 7 days of tourists.

Children at play

The stairs to their homes are logs.

A "street" in the neighborhood

Someone gave her a Snickers bar. She shared it, but
was not happy when he took most of it! Some things
are the same no matter where you are!

The children captured our hearts.

Once again we donned our orange vests and boarded the canoes. On the way back to the buses, they took us to a fresh waterfall and pool on the river. It was an interesting climb through the rocks along the river to reach the waterfall. I gave up and waited on the rocks while Dennis, Vicky and Peter continued on. They came back refreshed and wet!

The New City of Panama

Panama City is growing faster than most others.

Once we were through the Panama Canal, we anchored near the end of the Causeway off La Playita Marina. The tides here are up to 13 feet! That is a new experience for us! The fleet anchored outside of the marina which is filled with large sport fishing vessels and doesn’t really cater to sailboats. Besides, when the tide is low in the harbor, we would be lying on our sides! In fact, many of these places are having a challenging time trying to accommodate 40 sailing yachts and their multi-national crews. The chatter on the local VHF channel is interesting – even if you don’t understand the language of either party!

Skyscrapers are everywhere now.

Of course, the World ARC Rally had a couple of activities planned for us as well as some optional ones. We chose to partake of it all! We had a full day visit to the Embero Indian village, which is one of the most popular tours in Panama, and a city tour. Then being young at heart, we joined in the fun on one of the famous Panama City Party Buses. The Embero experience is one for a blog posting of its own.

The city tour was very interesting and worthwhile. The old city was founded in 1519 and was the first settlement of Europeans on the shores of the Pacific Ocean. It was through here that all of the gold from Peru passed on its way to Portobello where it wa loaded on ships headed for Spain. In 1617, 1200 men led by Henry Morgan sailed up the Chagres River to the city and reduced it to ruins.

Saving the facades of the Old Panama. It looks and
feels like you are in New Orleans.

Since the Panama Canal provides about $2.5 billion USD per year to the government, there is massive growth, new building of infrastructure and buildings. It is thought the intent is to become the financial capital of the Americas! 

In addition to the new development, they are renovating the old town area. Instead of demolishing it, they are keeping the facades of the old buildings, but gutting everything behind them. In the end, there will be modern housing with an old New Orleans look from the street. The area must have been beautiful in its day. I suspect it will become a hot real estate market once it is ready of occupation.

Some of the ruins of the churches. After a while, they
all begin to look alike so I don't recall which one this is.

We also visited some historical sites. One was one of the Catholic church ruins as there were many cathedrals before the plundering. The structures had underground tunnels connecting them to the governmental offices so officials could escape from harm by slipping off to the churches.

We had lunch at this typical Panamanian
restaurant with interesting decor.

We enjoyed a traditional Panamanian lunch with our friends on Vivo. I even ate the cerviche! As some of you know, I like my protein cooked! Surprisingly, I found it acceptable and will probably try it again. Many of their food items consist of a small amount of some meat, cheese or chicken filling wrapped in dough that is deep fried. My stomach can only handle a little of that, but it was tasty. I really enjoy their fresh lemonade.

After the tour we stopped at Allbrook Mall, which is about the size of The Mall of America in Minneapolis! We needed to get Dennis some new clothes. He has gone from a snug 36” waist to a 32-33” one! Trust me, he is being well fed on the boat and we eat out a lot on land. However, this “not sitting at the desk” lifestyle has melted pounds off both of us. I could use a size smaller, too (but I am waiting for several sizes smaller before shopping)! We are so active on the boat and on land that we are burning the fat away. Love it! Much of life underway is an extreme isometric workout just keeping oneself balanced with the boat 24/7. Even when sleeping there is constant motion requiring balance!

It's Party Time!

Now about that Party Bus! I don’t know if I will ever get my hearing back! But it was an interesting experience. Picture this: a colorfully painted school bus with flashing red, green and blue lights, bench seating along the sides, several metal poles in the center and straps on the ceiling for hanging on with one hand while drinking with the other one! Oh, I forgot, the music was so loud it made the eardrums throb!

Now you are touring the city for 3 hours, hopping on and off at other bars! Just my style, huh? It was fun watching the young crews self-destruct with the free flowing beer and rum! I wonder how they felt the next day? My eardrums were still throbbing! 

A lot of happy sailors off for the evening!

Fortunately, it was the Chinese New Year Celebration on the causeway so the traffic could hardly move. Our speed never got over 20 mph, which was good since the bus driver was texting and talking on the phone while drinking and driving! I thought about those headlines: 8 Americans, 10 Germans, and 6 Englishmen die in a bus crash … Opps! Try to put that out of your head. It was worth the experience. I would recommend the Party Bus just to say you have done it, though. Now I can say: been there; done that!

Continuing Through the Panama Canal

The black boat is us as we are passing through Gatun Lake

Morning came very early on the second day of our Panama Canal transit. Around 0600 another Advisor was delivered to the boat. Santiago came aboard and began preparing us for the day's adventure through the last two sets of locks. First we had to free ourselves from the overnight rafting and then proceed across Gatun Lake to the channel. There used to be a bypass, but it is no longer in use. The rest of the passage should take about five hours.Of course, we were to serve him a hot breakfast so out came the French toast menu. Then I served a mid-morning croissant filled with chocolate. That was a hit!

Herman the German has been renamed Titan

As we motored through the lake, Santiago pointed out the new canal construction sites, areas where they were "planting" explosives to widen the canal, and even the largest movable crane in the world: Herman the German. This crane was one of the spoils of WWII and has been used in the Panama Canal for many years. They claim the Canal expansion will be done soon, but we don't think so! There is still a lot of digging to do before they can create the concrete walls.

Explosives are "planted" in the PVC pipes

There is a lot of work being done to modify the existing parts of the Canal as well as the new locks being built to handle wider ships. In the past, ships have been built to the dimensions of the Canal. Now bigger ships are in demand and they need to be accommodated in the new wider locks. There are places in the passage where two ships cannot pass one another so that is being widened, too.

Our fleet of boats passed through the lake individually for several hours before rejoining our nesting groups. Once we gathered at the lock approach, we once again had to raft up while motoring at six knots. We successfully joined the other two boats and began our journey through the Pedro Miguel Locks.

Santiago with Bob from Vivo and Peter working the stearn.

When the fleet of 14 had all come into the chamber, the monkey fists were once again tossed on to the boats and the messenger lines attached. Our crew took up the slack to hold us firmly in position. Then the gates closed and the water was lowered. This time we had to pay out our lines as this is a downward lockage. It is supposed to be a more peaceful experience than the Gatun Locks.
This time Todd and Bob from Vivo came on board to assist with the lines since once again the current was on our side pushing us to the port.

Ron and Todd worked the foredeck.

However, we seemed to be the nest that needed more excitement than the others, so once again we had an exhibition of what not to have happen during a transit! Granted,  we were all on our toes ready to make sure everything went smoothly on the second day. Once again the ACP guys on the mainland screwed up! This time they failed to communicate with one another across the Canal and did not properly align the tie ups. We went diagonally in the chamber again. 

The Bridge of the Americas

Unfortunately for Avocet, the current was on our side and was pushing them against the wall again. Mike on Vivo and Dennis were following the Advisors' orders trying to keep them from harms way by using the engines in forward and reverse. There was a little gel coat damage. We were not too impressed with the attention the guys on land were giving to the situation. Everyone in front and behind us was trying to figure out what was happening. After some more shouting in Spanish and a lot of arm waving on land and engine maneuvering in the boats, we managed to get squared enough to move forward through the lock and were lowered down.

Why does it always feel like your mast is not going to
make it under the bridge as you approach one?

We continued to stay rafted or nested as we moved on to the next and final set of locks, through the Miraflores Lake and into the Miraflores Locks. This is the final lowering to the level of the Pacific Ocean. This lower chamber is the highest in the system, a requirement due to the extreme tidal variation in the Pacific Ocean. This will be our first time dealing with extreme tidal changes. There is also a strong current from behind in these locks so now we have to use reverse to control our progress.

Welcome to Panama City!

Once the final gate opened, we had to travel another 2.5 miles to the anchorage near La Playita Marina. Seeing the Bridge of the Americas ahead was a welcome site as we entered the Pacific Ocean. On the port side was the beautiful skyline of Panama City. Dennis and I looked at each other as said, "Well, we did it! We are now in the Pacific with another 29,000 mile to go!" Go West, young man, go west!