The City of Saints and Nearly All Sinners!

Church and Convent of Saint Francis

Welcome to Salvador de Bahia! Yes, that is the translation of the city’s unofficial logo: “Baia de Todos os Santos e de Quase Todos os Pecados.” The translation is "The City of Saints and Nearly All Sinners!" Salvador has a history of crime, which can be true in many big cities throughout the world. However, when the officials give strict instructions as to what you can and can’t do there, you must pay attention. Just look at a few of these suggested measure for personal safety:

1)      Don’t wear jewelry or watches

2)      Don’t walk on empty or dark streets or on the beach at night

3)      Don’t use public toilets

4)      Don’t carry original documents, instead have a photocopy of your passport

5)      Do carry only as much cash as you need, only one credit/debit card

Since we were in Brazil for Carnaval, we were given a two-page document on how to stay safe! It put a few people off and they chose not to go to Brazil at all. While we were very careful and tried to be street-smart, it was a little unsettling at times. However, I am glad we did not avoid this country.

Salvador was once the capital of Portugal’s New World Colony and is a very busy port city. The city is a blend of many cultures and people coming together. Today it is the capital of the State of Bahia and the second most popular leisure destination in Brazil. For over five centuries, it has been a multiplicity of cultural elements rising from the fusion of races and customs resulting in one of the most fascinating cities in the world.

Salvador is considered the “cultural capital of Brazil” hosting many cultural and religious events. The largest street Carnaval in the world lasting six days takes place there. Unfortunately, it is also a bit dangerous and the criminals have their holiday, too. Theft, mugging and pick-pocketing top the list.

Salvador also has the most attractive elements of South American and African cultures. You can see the influence of religious mysticism and music everywhere. And the cuisine is outstanding. They use coconut milk in many dishes and combine it in ways I never would have thought do to so. I learned a few new recipes here. 

One neighborhood of Salvador is home to the largest population of African descent in Brazil. African food, music and religion are promoted. Salvador hosts a number of internationally famous festivals. Even though the Carnaval (yes, that is the way they spell it) in Rio de Janeiro is more famous, there are huge celebrations in Salvador and nearby cities of Olinda and Recife, all in Bahia.

You could see the “tanning” of the world occurring here.  There did not seem to be racial tension as there is much inter-racial marriage. The bigger issue is economic. Brazil has extreme contrasts of rich and poor. Most of the houses and businesses have metal bars on the windows and gates on the doors or garden entries.

A view of the harbor from the upper city

This is the main harbor where the fleet has been in the past

years. It was much nicer in the newer Bahia Marina.

Originally, the city was the trade center with most of the shipments coming to Brazil though Salvador. There was great wealth at that time, but the money was used for buildings and churches instead of developing communities and jobs. The result is amazing historical architecture and examples of Latin Art throughout the city with huge pockets of slums. Today there is a huge art movement showcasing the blending of the many cultures.

Like many European cities, the buildings were built around large squares. Today, these squares are still gathering places and spaces for events. There was a lot of nightlife in the old city of Pelourinho, where we went with great caution for dinner on two nights. The cobblestone side streets are hilly and are somewhat challenging for pedestrians, but so narrow only a single vehicle can pass though at any time.

Street music was everywhere!

The World ARC fleet was based at the Bahia Marina after our Yellow Shirt, Victor, made the arrangements moving us from the older Terminal Nautico da Bahia where previous fleets had berth.  It was a safer environment, newer facilities, a number of restaurants and services available within the marina.
When the other boats finally arrived, we started the clearance process. It was supposed to be easy, but the authorities decided to make all of us come in to the police station. After numerous taxis, time waiting, the general hassle, etc., we learned that they had changed the procedure because other countries give their citizens hassles so they would do it, too! It would have been so much more efficient for the authority to come to the marina and clear us in as a group!

Beautiful old buildings with interesting architecture.

The tile work was beautiful everywhere.

Since Trillium was the only boat in, the four of us wanted to walk out the marina gate, turn left and cross over the bridge above the beach. Everyone discouraged us from walking, but it was still daylight and we could see the restaurant on the other side. We walked anyway. And we did meet a kook on the bridge, but he caused us no harm. Following a wonderful meal of Brazilian filet mignon hosted by Colt, the restaurant would not let us walk back. We showed the manager that our boat was right below. He called a cab!

Colorful art all around the city.

A few days later, three  local young adults leaving the marina on foot were mugged and robbed in the middle of the day right at the top of the entrance to the marina. Then everyone believed the safety warnings. It is a real problem throughout Brazil and you see police officers or military officers everywhere.

Traveling in groups, we had a couple of fun nights on the town. One night we went to the Bale’ Folclorico da Bahia. We thought we were going to a ballet. It was a Brazilian ballet with the dancers in costumes representing the ancient gods and spirits. Like most ballets, there was a story being told and we figured out most of it. It told of the history of the people of Salvador.
Unfortunately, few people speak English and none of us spoke Brazilian Portuguese! The costumes were beautiful and the dance and acrobatics was amazing. The folklore and the popular culture of Brail were formed by the combination of three different influences: European, by the Portuguese colonization; African, by the slaves; and by indigenous native people of Brazil.

The Bale’ showed some of the most important expressions of the Bahian folklore, and some dances of the Candomble, African religion, in which music and dance are one of the main factors. There was a dance for each of the gods: God of Iron and War, Goddess of Rivers and Lakes, God of Diseases and Death, Goddess of the Winds and Storms, God of Hunting and Forests, God of Fire and Thunder, and the Goddess of the Sea. The final dance was the Samba de Roda, which is the most popular dance in Brazil and was performed by slaves in their leisure time. It was a very interesting cultural evening.

Our group of 12 found a restaurant nearby, Zulu, run by an Italian so we figured it had to be good! And it was. In fact, we ask if he would take a reservation for 30 the next night so we could all have a Salvador dinner together! Since the place was so small and they cooked everything on five hot plates, he would let us know what his head chef thought and confirm with us the following day if the chef was willing.

We received a call the next day telling us he would close to the public and give us a fixed menu dinner. Great! We were all in and had another wonderful meal there. If you go to Salvador, dine at Zulu and tell them the crazy fleet of sailors sent you!

Unfortunately, John and Colt missed a lot of this fun, but we did spend a day with them visiting the village of Itaparica on the Isla e Itaparica. This is a regular weekend hotspot for the locals and a quiet village during the week. It has a large beach and is only a 40-minute ferry ride across from the mainland. We were there on a Monday afternoon. More about that in my next posting.