Seeing the Pitons from Land and More

Life is good in St. Lucia. Besides spending nearly two weeks hanging out at the pool, wining and dining and vegging on the boat, we did take an island tour with a driver. Even though there is only one main road, the driving can be challenging so we take the easy way and get an air-conditioned vehicle with a driver! This way Dennis can see more than the road and I don’t have to read the guide aloud as we whip past things.

Our driver stopped at the significant lookouts so we could see the Pitons from different locations. Of course, the locals are there selling their wares at the favorite stops. I bought a colorful wooden bead necklace at the first stop. The driver told me I didn’t need to buy from everyone. I told him that we like to leave a little money in the hands of the locals and not the stores. Besides, I knew if I wore the necklace, the rest of them won’t pressure me to by from them!

One of the highlights of the tour was seeing the Pitons from land. We had spent a night anchored below them, but it is difficult to take them in at that angle. They certainly are majestic from both land and sea! We continued south to see their new-ish airport. And we went to see the volcano.

At one point, since we had not taken tour time to eat lunch, the driver stopped along the road and bought himself an interesting snack. Of course, we bought one, too. It was very tasty and had cherries in it. But it was extremely dense and heavy. I have forgotten what the main ingredient was, but it was one of the many root starch sources common in the islands. It was a definite "stick to your ribs" treat!

As we drove through several small towns, we saw how people lived, visited a street market to buy produce. Actually, I would rather by produce on the street from the people trying to scratch out a living, rather than in the big markets. Not only do I like to see the money in the hands of the locals, I don't like the fact that the supermarkets refrigerate everything, even the tomatoes. That not only destroys the flavor, but it also means I have to keep it refrigerated - and I don't have enough space to do that!

Next stop: their active volcano. Having stood two feet from the cauldron of the volcano in Tanna, Vanuatu while it was spewing embers and seeing the red lava flowing into the sea in Hawaii, we weren’t too impressed. I think the driver was frustrated that we didn’t climb to the viewing point and listen to the guide’s presentation. The sulfur smell was very strong and unpleasant. I also think he was hoping for a 30-minute nap! We only spent ten minutes there and asked him to please continue the tour.

The final stop on our tour was the Diamond Falls and Botanical Gardens at Soufriere Estate. It was a lovely botanical garden with mineral pools, which we did not use. After the mineral baths in New Zealand, nothing measures up! Yes, I guess I am spoiled by all of the wonderful experiences we have had the chance to enjoy. The flowers and various plants in the garden were interesting.


The garden is the creation on an estate of one family who continues to maintain it. The minerals in the water of the falls have stained the rocks with yellow, green and orange. It was a very serene setting and cool in the shade. Shade is always a welcome relief down here.

Our final stop was at a street market so we could buy some

fresh produce. The store at Marigot Bay does not offer much.

Back to Bequia!

This says it all!

Bequia is one of our favorite Windward Islands. It is known as the Island of Clouds and is the largest of the Grenadine Islands. The name “Becouya” was given to the island by the Caribs. It lies nine miles south of St. Vincent. The island’s history has been entwined with the sea for generations. The traditions of boat building, fishing and whaling are still evident.

The Church windows

There is evidence that Bequia was inhabited as early as 200 AD by highly skilled pottery-making Amerindians who originated from South America. The Caribs migrated from South America shortly before the arrival of Columbus in the Antilles in the late 15^th century. The Caribs conquest over the indigenous “Saladoid” people, as named by archeologists, and ruled until the French seized Grenada and the northern islands in 1650.

The local church has a long history.

Admiralty Bay is good for anchoring and there are quaint and colorful shops and restaurants ashore. Port Elizabeth is the town and where Customs is located. This island offers many activities and encourages cruisers to participate in things like the children’s literacy program. They had suffered minor damage in the recent hurricanes and was back to normal. This is where Dennis worked with the swim team last April.

A typical Bequia produce shop

All of the shops are so colorful in Bequia

We discovered a new market with great meats and fruits and vegetable in town, Doris Fresh Food. I stocked the freezer here. We try to spread our money around, so we also shopped at a couple of smaller markets.

For a little exploration, we hired a driver to take us on an island tour where we saw the whaling station and very expensive vacation homes, one is for sale for $11,000,000 USD. I think I need a Sugar Daddy for that one!

Our trip took us to the south end of the island and through the mountain roads to the other side of the island and back down and around so we saw all except the fort. We have seen enough forts for a lifetime.

A group of locals came by to sing Christmas carols to us.

Janice, Ken, Gunella, Dennis, Sherry & Tony

Since it was the Christmas season, plans for cruisers activities were discussed on the morning net. The owner of The Fig Tree restaurant generously offers her patio dining area and grill to the cruisers for their Christmas Day meal since she closes the restaurant to allow her staff to have Christmas off. We were not going to be there for the holidays, but the cruising community was making plans for a community meal. Bequia goes all out with fireworks on New Year’s Eve.

It was fun meeting up with Gunella and Tony from S/Y Katarina (AUS) and Janice and Ken from S/Y Resolute II (AUS) in the bay. We had dinner together at the Bequia Plantation Hotel one night. We are finding it somewhat lonely sailing without the World ARC family so it is wonderful when we meet up with some of them from time to time.

Looking out from Jack's Beach Bar

Of course, no visit to Bequia is complete without a lunch at Jack’s Beach Bar! We usually anchor out from there and dinghy in to use the good Internet. They have a wonderful burger and fries. It comes with a free beer, too. I have actually learned to drink beer on this big adventure! I don’t love it, but on a hot day, it is refreshing.

Bequia is known for the Bequia Mount Gay Music Fest in late January. Unfortunately, we will be in St. Lucia at that time. This little community has so much happening all cruising season that it would be easy to just hang out there for weeks at a time.

And before we could leave, we needed to have our favorite lobster salad at the Gingerbread Cafe. Of course, their Internet adds to the lingering under the huge trees after lunch. It seems like we are always seeking our favorite places to eat  - and good Internet - when we revisit an island! The shade of these trees make it very pleasant in the hot afternoons!

Since we had reservations at the wonderful Marigot Bay Capella Resort Marina in St. Lucia, it was time to weigh anchor and sail overnight to St. Lucia. We do not like the safety issues related to stopping in St. Vincent, so we just sail on by each time. Recently there was a serious incident at the Pitons anchorage in St. Lucia so we decided not to stop there this time. We planned our departure so we would arrive at the Marigot Bay entrance at 0800 when the marina office opens.

Off to See the Rich and Famous

A straightforward sail into the wind. Some tacking required.

Union Island, first island in the group of islands known as St. Vincent and the Grenadines, which comprises 32 islands and cays (or as we would say “keys”) extending over 45 miles. We stopped at Palm Island, The Tobago Cays Marine Park and Bequia in March on our way to the World ARC Finish Line in St. Lucia.

We did not have time to go to Mustique last spring on our way up to St. Lucia. We had heard about Mustique and its fancy resorts. This time our plan was to go there and pick up a mooring ball for three nights. Everyone laughed at us and said that Britannia Bay is too rolly and no one stays more than one night even though the Conservation Fee of $70 USD gives you three nights on a mooring. Game on! You haven’t lived rolly until you have anchored in Simpson Bay, St. Marteen!

Brittany Bay from the Firefly

We found the bay very comfortable and stayed all three nights! And Shean, the dockmaster, was very helpful coming out to help us tie up to what we call “French-style” mooring balls. There is no line coming off to pick up so you must somehow manage to thread your own lines though the loop on the top of the mooring ball. Of course, the deckhand (Dennis) is 4-5 feet above the ball on a bouncing boat while the helmsman (me) is trying to hold the boat in place without running over the buoy! Challenging! Thank you, Shean!

The homes of Mick Jagger and Brian Adams are on the 

beach just over Dennis' right shoulder.

Mustique is a private island owned by the home owners there. They formed the Mustique Company which runs most of the places and is the governing body. The homeowners include people like Tommy Hilfiger, Mick Jagger, Brian Adams, etc. so they can afford to own the island! The beaches are private for use of the owners and resort guests.

Out of respect for the owners’ privacy, some areas are off limits, especially during high season and the holidays. We were fortunate to be able to tour the whole island as our guide in a mule vehicle pointed out the homes, beaches and many amenities available on the island. We could take photos, but not of people.

It was so nice to see some Christmas decorations that

were not sun-faded plastic Santa figures. Real tree here 

at the Firefly. Lovely resort to return to someday.

The classic sailors’ hangout, Basil’s Bar, was being rebuilt on the waterfront and was scheduled to reopen on December 22. There was Basil’s Pop Up Bar on the beach, but it wasn’t serving food. At least we could get WI-FI there. Since there was no dinner to be had at Basil’s, we walked, and walked and walked up, up, up the hill to The View for dinner. The guide book states a 15-minute walk. Sure, on the way down! But we took a taxi down since it was very dark.

There is another bay to the north where only owners can anchor their boats. This is Endeavour Bay where the Cotton House, the fanciest hotel in the Caribbean, is located. Its Beach Café is right on the waterfront and is a lovely setting for breakfast and lunch. We enjoyed a nice lunch with a stunning view and fresh breeze - except for the bird that kept swooping down to snatch breadstick out of the bread basket on the table. I am not a bird lover (nice to watch from a distance, but not up close and personal) so this annoyed me. No one seemed to care! At a place like this, I should not have to deal with birds in my plate!

I love this type of palm tree that fans out.

Our most enjoyable evening of Sundowners and dinner was up the hill at the Firefly. A couple from England own this restaurant and guest house with a large swimming pool and a beautiful sunset view. We met two other couples from England who had just arrived for the Christmas holidays. Apparently, they met each other at the Firefly a couple of years ago. They never see each other in London, only here even though they do not plan their trips to coincide. 

Time to raise anchor and move on. There isn’t much more to do on Mustique as a visitor except eat and drink and listen to music. And with the holiday crowd starting to arrive on the little airstrip, security would be tightening soon. So it is time to move on to another favorite island: Bequia.